iPad Pro 12.9" Front Facing Camera Replacement

Step 1

Completely power down your iPad before you begin.
If your screen is cracked, lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's screen until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the screen.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Step 2

Removing the screen involves using an opening pick or halberd spudger to separate the adhesive securing the screen to the frame.
As you slice through the adhesive, note the following:
The top has a large patch of thick adhesive. You'll need to slice 1/2" deep in order to cut the adhesive.
Don't slice deeper than 2 mm along the long edges of the iPad, or you risk damaging the display panel.
The lower edge also has thick patches of adhesive, but there are delicate flex cables in each corner. Don't slice deeper than 1/4" around the lower corners.
To help mark the iPad's orientation, you can apply a piece of tape to the top edge of the iPad screen.

I have an A1652 iPad pro 12.9” that was originally my wife’s. The battery doesn’t hold a charge very long in use so I read through this guide and ordered the kit and battery. This iPad has a gold colored case that appears to wrap over the edges of the screen. As a result I could not find any place to slice through the adhesive. Model number brought up on the “about” screen is ML3P2LL/A and serial is DLXR3M7LGMW5. Is this possibly a transition model? Any ideas?

wavose -

Hello! Based on the model number, it looks like you have the 1st generation cellular version of the iPad Pro 12.9". This guide should work for you. The tolerances on the iPad are very tight—you're looking for the seam between the black bezel and the gold case. You'll need a lot of heat in order to loosen the bezel.

Arthur Shi -

Step 3

Heat an iOpener and lay it over the left edge of the iPad to soften the adhesive holding the screen in place.
Alternatively, you can use a heat gun, hair dryer, or heat pad. Be careful not to overheat the iPad—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.
Wait two minutes for the adhesive to soften before proceeding to the next step. The edge should be slightly too hot to the touch.

Oven works fine: preheat to ~225 then turn off, protect back with towel and warm for 10-15 minutes. Basically the same as a car interior in summer, this skips about a dozen steps. Used mini plastic pry tools and a few picks/cards, no need for suction or iopener: yet another reason microwaves should be relegated to diners to destroy perfectly good food. Two issues from my surgery: damaged small section of screen border by carding too far inside the device while effortlessly slicing through adhesive, and one of the smart connector pins was revived from bent pin purgatory. Apple’s planned obsolescence genius truly shines through the multipin snap connectors. I detached the screen cable before disabling battery, YMMV; remainder of procedure was done to spec with disabled battery on reinstall. Screw monster only ate about 2, even after breaking an elbow sweat with 70% iso the residual adhesive should outlast the ios nerf that will bring this ipad to the grave. Much easier than first impression with oven.

Andrew Johnson -

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 7

Attach a suction cup to the left edge of the iPad's screen, above the Smart Connector port.

Step 8

While holding down the corners of the iPad, repeatedly pull up on the screen, then ease it back down to weaken the adhesive. This will eventually create a small gap in the seam.
If the edge cools down during the pulling process, reheat the edge with an iOpener before proceeding.
Once you've created a small gap, insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the pick more than 2 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

Step 9

Lay a hot iOpener along the bottom left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the home button.
After letting the adhesive soften, insert an opening pick or halberd spudger into the gap next to the Smart Connector.
Be careful not to insert the halberd spudger more than 2 mm.
Use an opening pick or halberd spudger to slice the adhesive along the bottom left side of the iPad. If the slicing becomes difficult, reheat the edge and try again.

Well, this is the scariest part so hold my beer. I tried something similar to the “iOpener” which is a gel filled heat/cold pack I could microwave. That was good to start warming, but I was too impatient to get the first pick under, so I got out my heat gun. Mine is a 1200 watt model and I used it on low, the tip about 3 fingers away from the glass, sweeping it over 8” sections about 10 times taking about 3 seconds per pass. It worked ok and I now have 10 picks pried under all edges. Took about 35 minutes to this point. Only difficulty here is bracing the iPad while sliding the picks under the glass - need to be careful to not knock out the picks you already have inserted.

One note I might offer is that it’s not entirely clear from your pics which is the top/bottom/left/right side because it’s hard to see the button on the screen in your pics. Another is to mark your 2mm pick depth with whiteout or something similar.

jpmist -

Step 10

Insert a pick in the bottom left corner of the iPad to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11

Lay a hot iOpener along the upper left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the front-facing camera. Wait a minute to let the adhesive soften.
Use an opening pick to slice the adhesive along the upper left side of the iPad. If the slicing becomes difficult, reheat the edge and try again.
Be careful not to insert the opening pick more than 2 mm as you slice along the left edge.

Step 12

Insert a pick in the upper left corner of the iPad to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13

Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften.
Use an opening pick to slice through the top edge of the iPad, stopping before you reach the front-facing camera.
The adhesive is thicker along the top. You'll need to slice 1/2" deep—about the thickness of the top bezel.
If the slicing becomes hard, reheat the edge and try again.

Step 14

Insert an opening pick just before the front-facing camera to keep the adhesive from resealing.

Step 15

Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften.
Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger blade just past the front-facing camera.
Use the opening pick to slice through the adhesive in the upper right corner.
You'll need to slice 1/2" deep—about the thickness of the top bezel.
If the slicing becomes hard, reheat the edge and try again.

Step 16

Insert an opening pick in the upper right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 17

Soften the adhesive by heating the right edge of the iPad using an iOpener.
Use an opening pick or halberd spudger to slice along the right edge of the iPad, till you reach the lower right corner.
Don't insert the pick more than 2 mm along the right edge.
Leave an opening pick in the middle of the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 18

Leave an opening pick in the lower right corner of the iPad to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 19

Use an iOpener to heat the lower edge of the iPad.
Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger blade 1/4" into the lower right corner of the iPad.
Slide the opening pick along the lower edge of the iPad, stopping short about 1/2" before reaching the home button.
Each lower corner has a thick patch of adhesive, but there is also a delicate flex cable. Don't slice deeper than 1/4" around the corner to prevent damaging the flex cable.

Step 20

Slide the tip of an opening pick or a halberd spudger to cut the adhesive below the home button.

Step 21

After you slice below the home button, reinsert the tip of an opening pick or a halberd spudger blade 1/4" into the lower edge.
Slice along the lower edge until you reach the opening pick.

Step 22

At this point, you've sliced through most of the screen adhesive. Use an opening pick to carefully slice any remaining adhesive along the edges until the screen is freed. If some parts are stubborn, heat the area with an iOpener to loosen the adhesive.

Step 23

The display cables in this iPad are very short. Read the next two steps before you proceed.
Do not tilt the screen about the lower edge. The display cables don't have enough slack to allow for this.
Lift up the upper edge of the screen and slide the entire screen towards the front-facing camera to access the iPad's internal components.
The display cables will tear if you raise the screen more than 80 degrees.
Use masking tape to tape the lower edge of the screen to the frame to prevent the screen from slipping.

At this step I could lift the Top edge about 4 inches to peek under it and see the cable in the center. I tugged the top edge away from the bottom some to reduce strain on the cable.

jpmist -

For me, disaster struck at this step. I was being careful but somehow lifted the wrong end and snapped the ribbon cable.

😟😟😟 Be careful It would have been helpful to label the screen's top and bottom edges with a marker and tape at the beginning of the repair process. For that matter, label right and left edges as well. Then change all dialog to reference top, bottom, left, or right. I think it would make it easier to follow the instructions

David Hobson -

Step 24

This step shows one way to support the screen using masking tape. You can also turn the iPad sideways. Make sure not to strain the display cables with whatever method you choose.
Attach a long strip of masking tape to the top edge of the screen. Fold the tape over the edge and make sure that the tape is attached securely.
Attach the other end of the strip to the bottom edge of the iPad frame to hold the screen at an angle. Make sure the tape attaches securely to the frame.

I must have crappy masking tape as the screen wanted to slip and close, so some wooden coffee stirrers helped to prop it up.

jpmist -

Just make sure you use plenty of tape on the backside of the screen and on the underside of the iPad and the tape won't slip.

trevorsklar -

Step 25

It's important to disconnect the battery before you proceed further. Detaching or connecting the display cables with the battery plugged in can cause a short that will destroy touchscreen functionality.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the nine screws securing the logic board EMI shield:
Eight 1.2 mm screws
One 2.4 mm screw

Step 26

Lift the logic board EMI shield from the edge nearest the top of the iPad.
Peel up and remove the EMI shield from the logic board.
This takes a bit of force due to the many tiny clips securing the shield, and the shield may deform slightly. That's okay—try to keep the deformation to a minimum, and it will lay flat when you reinstall it and screw it down.
Remove the logic board EMI shield.

So many teeth! Jiggling the shield side to side helped release it.

jpmist -

In the iPad 4G version, this is where the cellular radio sits. You might see some different chips underneath the EM shield, and a little adhesive gasket. When I pulled my EM shield off I tried not to disturb that adhesive, and put it back when I was done.

trevorsklar -

Step 27

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.8 mm screw securing the battery connector.

Step 28

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has springs on the logic board that press down against the battery contact pads. You'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Step 29

Make a battery blocker using a playing card and slide it underneath the logic board connector to disconnect the battery.
You can also use an iFixit battery blocker. Be very careful and don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force.
Leave the blocker there to prevent the battery connector leads from making contact until you have completed your repairs.

Step 30

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the display cable bracket:
Two 2.4 mm screws
One 1.2 mm screw
Remove the display cable bracket.

Step 31

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display and digitizer cables from their logic board sockets.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
These cables are very delicate, and the connectors can damage easily if they're misaligned. When you reattach the cables to the logic board, try to have as much slack on the cables and gently press the connectors onto their sockets.

Would it help to draw a sharpie line between the two parts of the connector, so these can be alingned when refitting?

Mal Hatcher -

Step 32

Remove the screen.
Be sure to remove all remaining adhesive from the iPad's enclosure.
If your screen didn't come with pre-applied adhesives, use our screen adhesive application guide to install fresh pre-cut adhesive strips when reassembling your iPad.

Phew! One hour 45, took my time, maybe cut that in half if I did it again and pray I don’t have to. Working sideways, the little screws were usually caught by the battery on the bottom edge. Need a shorter Phillips than in the iFixit kit. And looks like I don’t need the pre-cut adhesives I bought as they were on the replacement screen - hopefully I can get a refund.

Good time for a coffee break before cleaning off the old adhesive. Quite a relief to get the screen off & thanks much to you guys for getting me this far.

jpmist -

Es wäre sehr schön, wenn hier noch jemand beschreiben könnte, wie man "unfallfrei" die Klebereste vom Display rundherum entfernt. Ich habe das in meinem Falle ganz vorsichtig mit Isopropanol (hochrein) getan. Die Klebereste gingen damit gut ab - trotzdem ist das eine sehr aufwendige Arbeit, bis man alles sauber hat. Zudem kann man noch so vorsichtig sein, durch die angebrachte Displayunit auf der Rückseite der Displayscheibe und die dadurch entstehende Kapillarwirkung zieht sich immer Isopropanol zwischen Display und Displayunit, was danach zu hellen Flecken führt. Ich hoffe, die verschwinden wieder, wenn das Iso abgetrocknet / ausgetrocknet ist.

Vielleicht hat jemand eine gute Idee, wie man diese Klebereste entfernt, ohne dass das Beschriebene passiert.

Markus Schnackenberg -

Markus,

I just wouldn't use any isopropyl alcohol to remove the residue. We're going to immediately apply more adhesive right after we remove the old adhesive, so if there's a little bit of sticky residue remaining, that's not a problem for us. I would just scrape as best as I could with a spudger, make sure there's no adhesive on the internals, and call it a day.

trevorsklar -

Step 33

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the top bracket:
One 1.2 mm screw
Two 2.3 mm screws

Step 34

Remove the top bracket.

First time I’ve been disappointed with one of your breakdowns. I’m following your instructions to the letter on my iPad Pro A1652. I get to this step, remove the top bracket and instead of just the front facing camera I have a completely different array of stuff. I’m now screwed as I have no idea where to go next. ?

Craig -

I’m assuming this breakdown is for the WIFI only version? Well, the celular version has way more stuff to accommodate. Would be good if you say from the start that this is only for the WIFI version to save people getting 2 hours into a battery replacement attempt before discovering that it doesn’t cover the model number it says it does.

Craig -

Hi Craig!

I'm sorry about that! You're right—this is the Wi-Fi model only. I'll add a clarification note in the intro.

The extra components underneath the bracket are the cellular antennas. You may need to remove some additional brackets and/or disconnect some additional cables to reach the camera.

Arthur Shi -

I don't see any clarification note in the intro 7 months later warning that cellular models require additional disassembly.

What would be even more helpful would be to add an alternate step showing how to remove/disconnect the cellular-specific brackets.

MICHAELB6 -