Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors

Zero insertion force (ZIF) connectors are often used to secure delicate ribbon cables of many sizes. A hinged locking flap runs across the top of the socket, and the cable is inserted on one of the long edges.

Use the widest tool possible to avoid damaging the delicate hinge pins.

If the cable has a pull tab, use it to grip the cable. You may damage the cable by gripping it directly.

Some cables may have small "arms" or notches that help secure them. If this is the case, you'll need to lift the cable to free it and then pull it out.

Some cables (like the one pictured) may have a line that marks the edge of the connection area. Make sure you insert the cable so the line is flush with the edge of the socket.

You may run into a ribbon cable with a socket that looks like a ZIF connector with no flap. Usually, the cable will be more rigid and have a stiff, reinforced plastic end. These connectors are often found in larger devices such as printers, projectors, or games consoles.

Some ribbon cable connectors have a plastic locking tab around them. These are often used in large game consoles and mice.

The cable should be able to slide in and out of the socket with little to no force. If you feel resistance, the tab may not be fully unlocked.

There are many other types of ribbon cable connectors that might require you to mix-and-match disconnection methods. Some Xbox gaming consoles have ribbons cables with a section that loops around the connector, and have a locking tab.

Some connectors have a flat, plastic top that sits flush on top of their socket. Often, these connectors have multiple cables connected to them. Flat-topped connectors are usually on the larger side, and are typically used to connect batteries in laptops and larger gaming devices.

Sometimes, these connectors have a slide lock running across the top that holds the connector in place. If this is the case, push the lock away from the connector before trying to disconnect it.

Flat topped connectors can also have a metal locking bar that keeps the connector in place. Unclip and flip the locking bar up to disconnect it.

Press (or "pop") connectors are found at the end of a ribbon cable and have a flat, metal or plastic top—typically rectangular. These connectors are extremely common in smartphones and laptops, and connect a wide variety of small to medium-sized cables—screen, battery, board interconnect, etc.

Coaxial connectors like these—also called antenna, U.FL, or IPEX connectors—have a metal head that snaps over a circular socket on the board, like a metal snap button on a shirt. These connectors come in various sizes and are often used to connect Wi-Fi or cellular antenna cables.

If you work with these connectors often, you may want to buy a specialized disconnect tool (small size, large size). These tools speed up the disconnect and reconnect procedures while minimizing the risk of damage.

Display (sometimes called eDP cables in laptops) and camera cable connectors often have a small metal buckle running around the socket, locking them in place. The connectors are typically wide and may have tape attached to the buckle.

Some connectors slide into the side or top of their sockets and have no convenient place to pry or pull. Typically, these connectors have multiple cables attached and are used for small batteries or speakers.

It may take a lot of alternating before the connector comes out. Be patient, and don't pull on the cables.

Some connectors (like the one pictured) have a small marking that shows which side of the connector should be facing up.

Large sliding connectors work the same as smaller sliding connectors, usually sliding into the side of a socket. Typically, these connectors have multiple cables attached and are commonly used for laptop batteries.

JST connectors are a type of sliding connector that usually have multiple twisted cables attached to it. They're typically on the smaller side and are often used in mice or for speakers.

If you're having trouble, try rocking the connector side-to-side to loosen it.

Power or power supply cable connectors usually have multiple cables running to a large plug with a locking tab. They're often found in larger electronic devices, like gaming consoles and desktop PCs.

Bundled cable connectors have many small wires leading into them, often wrapped in a sleeve. They may not have anywhere to push with a spudger or a spot to grip with tweezers. Pulling on the cables themselves might be the only option.

Pull evenly on the full width of the cables so no individual wires are strained.

Sometimes removing the connector from its socket isn’t enough—an additional step or two is required to free up the cable. Here we have a ribbon cable that is lightly glued into place.

For particularly delicate or stubborn cables, a little heat from a hair dryer, heat gun, or our handy iOpener will help soften the adhesive.

Some common internal power and data cables, like these SATA cables, work much like the regular audio/video cables you already have around the house.

Some variants of the SATA cable have a small metal release tab on the side that you may need to press before pulling.

You may encounter wires that weren’t designed to be removed at all, and are soldered in place.

If you don't have any soldering experience, head on over to our soldering technique guide or check out our soldering 101 blog post and video.

Eventually, you're bound to come across a connector that you've never seen anywhere else.

For example, the connector shown here has a locking tab deep in a tight cavity. A long, thin tool like a spudger can help unlock the tab and disconnect the cable.

Some connectors in hard-to-reach areas might use special or unintuitive locking mechanisms.