iPad Pro 10.5" Screen Replacement

Written By: Dominik Schnabelrauch

Comments: 57

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

1 - 3 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace a broken screen (a.k.a. display or front panel assembly) on an iPad Pro 10.5”. The screen consists of a glass touch panel or digitizer fused to an LCD. This entire assembly must be replaced as a single unit.

Note that the fingerprint scanner in the home button is paired to the iPad's logic board. In order to maintain Touch ID functionality after your repair, you must keep the original home button and transfer it onto the new screen as instructed below.

This repair can fix issues like a cracked glass digitizer, a non-responsive touchscreen, or a broken LCD.

You’ll need replacement adhesive to reattach components when reassembling the device.

Tools

Parts

iPad Pro 10.5" Screen

Step 1

Strong adhesive holds the screen in place. In order to separate it, you'll first need to heat and soften the adhesive using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun.
You may need to reapply heat repeatedly throughout this process to prevent the adhesive from cooling and hardening.
Prepare an iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of the iPad's screen for about two minutes.

Step 2

If your iPad's screen is badly cracked, wear skin and eye protection. Cover the screen with a smooth layer of clear packing tape to contain glass shards and help the suction cup adhere. Alternatively, use a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) and fold it into a handle.
Place a suction cup next to the iPad's home button and press down to create a seal.
To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.
If you want to use the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier, follow this guide.
Firmly pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.
Don't pull too hard, or you may shatter the glass. If necessary, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive.
Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap.

i used a proper suction tile puller (small one from DIY store used to hold bathroom tiles) to lift the screen off after heating around the edge using a heat gun. Be careful - It didn't damage anything. The tiny suction things that come with those iPhone kits are not strong enough for this. The one in picture might be good, but looks similar to the kits ones that have key ring.

Robert Lord -

The suction cup that comes with the iPad battery replacement is plenty large enough and strong enough.

CAUTION, do not push the picks in more than a the width of the replacement screen adhesive strips. You will damage the $200 screen, maybe break the glass. The screen is multiple layers and the picks can get in-between the layers if you push too far in. I got into trouble at the lower left corner. After getting the screen loose, I found that I only need a 2-3 millimeters on the sides and bottom, and four or five millimeters in the corners.

Gene Torrey -

These comments need to be highlighted and added to the guide. The pictures showing the pick placement are very misleading. The thickness of the adhesive is only 2mm as you had mentioned! Waiting now for my replacement screen. Apples products look amazing but now I realize I would have been way better off just living with a one hour battery and or buying a new ipad.

William Best -

Step 3

Slice through the adhesive under the screen by sliding the pick along the edge of the display, towards the bottom left corner.
Leave the pick in place temporarily to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Be super carful at the sides! If you insert your pick more than ~2mm, you will separate your display and front glass.

voidfish - 30/11/20

Step 4

Apply heat to the left edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it's slightly too hot to touch comfortably.
If necessary, re-heat your iOpener for a few seconds or until it's a bit too hot to touch. Be careful not to overheat the iOpener, or it may burst.
Insert a second opening pick at the bottom left corner of the iPad.
Slide the second opening pick along the left side of the display to separate the adhesive underneath.
Leave the opening pick inserted near the top left corner of the iPad to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 5

Apply heat to the top edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it's slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

Step 6

Insert a third opening pick at the top left corner of the iPad.
Use the opening pick to cut the adhesive under the top edge of the iPad by sliding it to the top right corner.
The front-facing camera is located right in the center of the iPad's top edge and can be damaged if the pick is inserted too far. Only insert the tip of the opening pick when cutting near the camera.

Step 7

Apply heat to the final, right edge of the iPad for about two minutes, or until it's slightly too hot to touch comfortably.
Insert a fourth opening pick at the top right corner of the iPad.
Slide the opening pick down to the bottom right corner to cut the adhesive.
Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner—pausing to apply more heat if needed—and cut the remaining adhesive on the bottom edge, but stop before you reach the home button.

We must be very careful when we are prying left and right size bezel to peel off the screen as there very little gap between edges and LCD. Slightly inside push can crack LCD. We need to pay full care and raising edges very very slowly.

iRepairMan - 25/03/20

if you manage to get hold of the adhesiv strip, then pull it out slow and careful, that help a Lot !

HP SIE -

Step 8

Insert a fifth opening pick at the top of the iPad near (but not directly on) the front-facing camera.
Gently twist the pick to separate the display assembly from the iPad.
Don't try to remove the display all the way yet! It is still connected to the iPad's motherboard.
If needed, apply more heat and/or cut any remaining adhesive that prevents the display from separating.

Be very gentle when twisting. My screen broke in this step. I would not twist it but try to remove glue further as there is a aluminium support of the screen in the wide area beneath the light sensors and there is glue on that also preventing in easy lifting the screen. Just be careful not to damage the light sensors and camera.

agrior -

Step 9

Lift the display assembly from its top edge and carefully slide it up (towards the front-facing camera and headphone jack), until the screw that secures the battery power connector is revealed at the bottom.
Don't lift the display more than 70° or you may damage the attached ribbon cables.

How do you go about getting to this battery connector as it is covered by a large metal shield above the logic board, if you do not disconnect the battery you risk frying the back light.

Ayden McCormack - 28/10/19

The metal shield is not relevant for this. You can leave it in place or remove it if it comes of. Once the screw of the plate is removed you will be able to lift the print a little bit and put someting between the battery connector and the board connector. The connector is beneath the print. Look further on to see a deck card is used for this.

agrior -

Step 10

Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw that secures the battery power connector.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

What size Phillips bit?

Josh Heilik -

In this whole guide I used 00 and 000.

agrior -

Step 11

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

This picture looks nothing like my A2152 battery connector. I can’t really tell what is happening here.

todd sorel -

Step 12

Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.
To disconnect the battery, slide one prong of a battery blocker or the tip of an opening pick under the battery power connector to ensure the power circuit is interrupted.
Don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you're having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages.
Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

I found it very hard to fit something under the battery power connector. I did not have a battery blocker, so I tried a playing card. I was not able to slide it between the springs. The section of the battery power connector, above the cantilever springs, did not seem to want to give at all, like in the picture above. If other people had success, I would love to hear how.

hdh607 -

I didn’t have success either, but i kept myself grounded, and avoided battery contact as much as possible.

Amber Wooldridge -

I used a playing card cut to shape. I had to make a couple, to try a few times.. It does go in eventually. Not deep, but enough to break connection. You can test by trying to switch on iPad.

Robert Lord -

It took some time but I was able to get it under the back part and slide it forward.

Barbara Nelson - 03/05/22

You must disconnect the battery before plugging the new screen. I think i didn't break the circuit in first attempt and shorted the screen, the result was half of the screen didn't work. I used a playing card. Second attempt was successful with new screen.

Robert Lord -

I believe I have a good solution to this problem. I was dissatisfied with the thickness of the battery blocker, or even a thin guitar pick, for that matter; both required force and I feared bending the springs or leaving the connection intact.

What worked for me was cutting a small strip of non-conductive, static-proof film (the kind that RAM and other sensitive components come in). There was every reason to trust in its non-conductivity but just to be sure, I used a VOM to test; its resistance was out of the VOMs range, meaning that its conductivity was nil. I used a spudger to gently lift the logic board off of the battery contacts and slid the non-conductive strip in between; went without a hitch.

When reassembling, I laid the strip on the battery contacts, laid the logic board on top, installed it, connected the display panel and gently drew the slip out and installed the battery screw. Worked like a charm.

Valdaquende - 09/10/23

These are some extremely misleading set of instructions and picture. Much better if you have the battery discharged, so don't need to worry about blocking the connector. But DO NOT force anything in the through the socket and certainly do not try to bend up the soldered cover, as it appears to be happening in the picture. You will break the connector, most likely resulting in ipad shutting down every 3 minutes from the notorious "thermal sensor missing" panic system crash.

Kostas “Kosprey” - 30/01/24

Step 13

Slowly lift the display from its top edge, being careful not to strain the attached ribbon cables.
Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the display connector cover bracket.
You may need to angle the driver slightly in order to avoid straining the ribbon cables.
Remove the display connector cover bracket.

Here it is very precocious steps to do. Flx cables to connectors are small in size and we cannot lift the display vertically. Therefore, we may struggle to unscrew the metal shield. We need to use smaller size of philip screw driver or place vertically the display to create enough gap between philip screw driver and the cover bracket. Similarly, when we are replacing new display we need to be carefully connect four flex cable with connectors with logic board.

iRepairMan - 25/03/20

agree, with re-assembly very tiny screws and awkward positioning, the back two cables pop off if not careful.

Tom McGrath - 10/10/20

I did this step using just the tip of the PH000 screwdriver, it made it much easier to get my hands into the small space, the replacement screen from ifixit had tighter cables that I was not comfortable stretching out to go to a 90* angle to screw back on. Make sure your tip is magnetized for best results :)!

Amber Wooldridge -

Meaning no disrespect for this excellent guide, I found this photo to be a bit misleading; at least in my case. It clearly shows about 90˚ between the case and the display. I tested the limits with the one I was repairing and could find no way to raise the display far enough to clear a screwdriver without jeopardizing the cables. I resorted to the same solution that Amber Wooldridge discovered; using a PH000 bit and hand-tightening. I had a tiny needle-nosed plier that I used to tighten them a bit (but very gently).

Valdaquende -

Step 14

Use a spudger to disconnect the two visible display flex connectors by gently prying them straight up from their sockets.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 15

Underneath, you'll find two additional display cable connectors.
Use your spudger to gently pry them up and disconnect them.

I went to replace the LCD assembly on an ipad Air 3, and one of the flex cables on the new LCD assembly broke in half. The flex cables on the old assembly work well and are intact. Is it possible to transfer the old flex cable(s) to the new assembly, or can I solder the broken pieces of the new flex cable together? I have also contacted the part supplier about this and am awaiting a response.

Krella -

Step 16

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, before installing a display, remove any remaining adhesive from the iPad, and clean the glued areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This helps prep the iPad for fresh adhesive and ensures that it will bond properly.
If you plan to reinstall your existing display, remove any remaining adhesive from the back and clean the adhered areas with isopropyl alcohol.
Test your iPad's functions and install pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our display adhesive application guide before sealing it up.

Definitely test your iPad’s functions before sealing it up. I needed to reopen the display to reconnect the display connectors in order to have the display functioning properly. As a result, the adhesive strips did not work as well and I needed to tape some of the edges closed with a small section of strong clear packing tape.

hdh607 -

I stuck the adhesive to the chassis first. That was messy because the plastic that covers the adhesive seems to be for screen side first. So you end up exposing both sides and those collect dust. I now realise you're supposed to put the adhesive on screen first. Not sure if it would have made much difference in the outcome (mine screen is not stuck in some places).

Robert Lord -

I found this out too. I had two sealing kits and they were both meant to be fixed on the screen first. I did not managed to get the screen to stick with the body as well. Now used some B6000 glue in addition.

agrior -

Step 17

Use your iOpener or hair dryer for about a minute to heat the home button area in order to soften the adhesive securing the home button components.

Step 18

Use a pair of tweezers to peel off any tape covering the ZIF connector above the home button.
Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.

Step 19

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button flex cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
Gently peel the flex cable off the home button cover and fold it a little bit upwards.
If needed, apply more heat to soften the adhesive under the flex cable and make it easier to remove safely. The cable is very fragile. If it gets damaged, or if the home button has to be replaced, Touch ID will no longer function.

Step 20

Gently pry off the home button bracket by inserting the hook of a halberd spudger or the flat edge of a regular spudger under the bracket and gently pry it towards the bottom edge of the iPad.
The hot-melt glue holding this bracket in place can be stubborn. Apply heat to make it easier to separate, and/or very carefully insert a razor blade under the bracket to separate it.

Step 21

Lift the home button bracket starting from the left side.
Carefully pull it upwards toward the display, making sure not to damage the home button cable.
During reassembly, after installing the home button, you'll need to glue this bracket into place to secure it.
Scrape off as much of the old adhesive residue as you can, then clean it with acetone or high-concentration (90% or greater) isopropyl alcohol.
Secure the bracket with a high bond glue, superglue, or high-strength double-sided tape. Make sure the bracket is aligned correctly before allowing your adhesive to cure, or the home button will not click when pressed.
It may be necessary to use vise clamps to hold the home button bracket in place as the adhesive cures.

You cannot use Tesa or double side tape under bracket. There is some greater technique or material we need to use. I tried super glue even, though, I really not work what original clicking sounds. It happens almost all digital home button related all iPad. We need to strive to find its accurate solution.

iRepairMan - 25/03/20

Tesa tape works fine!

DarrenG - 15/02/21

What width/size Tesa tape (mm) do we require?

Robert Lord -

I ordered tesla tape without noticing the width and ended up with 2mm tape. I used three strips of it for this step, so 6mm would be perfect for the home button bracket. Having said that, the 2mm size is probably better if you need it for attaching the display, but I never needed it for that because I loved how the pre-cut adhesive strips in step 16 worked really well.

hdh607 -

Step 22

Use the tip of your finger to press the home button and gently push it through from the front side of the display.
Remove the home button.
If your screen was cracked, take special care to remove any small glass fragments from the home button before transferring it.
During reassembly, transfer over the home button gasket to the new screen or home button assembly.
If possible, turn on your iPad and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing it.

When we lift home button at very last stage, there is also ring/round plastic bracket that we need to peel off and re-attached to home button when transferring to the new display.

iRepairMan - 25/03/20

Do you glue the plastic ring on both sides , So is it glued to the lcd but also to the home button ?

Hugo Lambrechtsen - 03/07/20

Thanks for the tutorial, but it ends way to soon. The instructions on installing the new home button are vague, and there is nothing about when to remove the battery blocker or what adhesive is acceptable to use to reattach the screen. Would be great to see this tutorial cover everything from start to finish.

Thomas - 09/11/20

The responsive click is present, but does not have any function on the screen. Is there any correlation between the click and functionality, or did I maybe destroy the cable ?

Arved - 11/11/20

If it physically clicks but does not invoke any action then maybe the cable does not sit properly inside the ZIF-connector or the cable might be damaged. Try to re-connect and make sure it’s in the ZIF-connector all the way.

Tobias Isakeit - 15/12/20

I'v transferred a home button to a new screen and stuck it down with b-7000 adhesive. When I go to test and put the screen in place, I push the button but it seems to not stay stuck to the new screen. What should I do? I also have a white plastic ring that was part of the button. Should I have left it on there or remove it?

Mikey Blackstone -

I changed the LCD but now its completely dim.

What might be the cause?

choklet josi -

Either the cable is not installed correctly or You have blown the backlit ic. You will have to send it for micro soldering to replace the chip. Always make sure you disconnect the battery before any repair is performed.

Cellairis -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow this guide in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Member since: 23/11/16

217902 Reputation

18 comments

Thank you so much it was clear and useful

harmaz25 - 10/12/19

Do you have any suggestions for replacement displays i need a good yet cheap one.

Nicholas Klose - 28/02/20

I’ve read the parts & tools lists multiple times, but I don’t see any mention of the new screen itself. Have I overlooked it?

Nicky - 29/02/20

Yup…. Looking for a new screen too…. Any suggestions would be appreciated :-)

RAVI M. - 03/03/20

Yes! Thanks for a great teardown!

John Steinklauber - 30/04/20

Thank you so much you made a difficult job a little easier.

Richard Dixson - 27/05/20

I have purchased the displays from Repair Parts Plus but the adhesive does not hold very good at all. I had one device returned to me because of this and I was able to pull the display off with no heat.

Before you say it, yes I did clean it, yes I clamped it overnight.

sunruh - 01/07/20

if i have to replace my broken screen and put a new one (its funcional but broken), why is it necessary to uninstall the home button??

Juan Diaz - 13/08/20

The home button is linked to the logic board. So when you have setup the Touch ID function you will have to use that home to keep the function. If you replace the home button you’ll loose Touch ID.

Tobias Isakeit - 03/09/20

Worked as described, I used the iopener and blow dryer to get the old display off. Please note, you might need help replacing the display connector cover bracket, very small screws and awkward position.

Tom McGrath - 10/10/20

Hi, I know that some apple products ad the latest Iphone are “blocked” reguardely the repair. I’m talking about the true tone issue or the block of the phone. Is in the ipad pro 10.5” any type of this issues ?

Giulio - 22/03/21

For uninstalling a broken screen , that was so clear, Can any one pls provide the steps to reinstall a new screen for iPad Pro 10.5.

If you kindly include the steps by using the iPad Pro 10.5 adhesive strip provided by ifixit.

thanks in advance

Ziad HAMMOUDEH - 06/04/21

Hi!

My iPad Pro 10.5 dies unexpectedly after a few minutes, This happened after changing the screen. I forgot to disconnect the battery when changing the screen

How do I fix it?

Ipad model: A1701

Seerwan Saadi -

I ordered a top condition used screen from iFixit and it was in really good shape! Awesome repair.

hdh607 -

I replaced the screen, with one that I’ve torn off from a used iPad of the same model A1701, But it won’t light up, I can update the software with MacOS Finder, and my AirPods still automatically connect to it, but the screen is black, no back-light, no dim image. What is happening?

Max Li - 21/03/22

You guys helped me save my 2017 iPad Pro 10.5 that I've had for 5 years. I'm so happy I don't have to toss this thing in the trash just because of a screen. Even happier that I don't have to pay new iPad money to replace it. Thanks so much ifixit homies. Much love.

j c -

Can I just replace digitizer?

Cesar Padilla -

The screws in steps 13 were hard to rescrew. The screw driver appeared to be too large. When doing the side removal of the glue if the wedge goes to far it will destroy the LCD screen. Ideally including the reassembly steps will be beneficial. Unfortunately for my case I was left with two broken screens.

Lyk Iordanid -