.jpg.webp) Ogata in 2018 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Japanese | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | February 4, 1998 Kurume, Japan | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation(s) | Professional sport climber and boulderer | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 171 cm (5 ft 7 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 61 kg (134 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Known for | Winner of multiple World Cup medals | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Yoshiyuki Ogata (緒方 良行 Ogata Yoshiyuki, born February 4, 1998) is a Japanese professional competition climber and boulderer. He has won multiple medals in competition bouldering at IFSC Climbing World Cup events,[1] including gold medals at Vail in 2019[2] and at Innsbruck in 2021.[3] Ogata won the overall IFSC Men's Bouldering title for the 2021 and 2022 seasons[4][5] and finished third overall in 2019.[1]
Early life and youth competitions
Born in Kurume, Fukuoka prefecture,[6] Ogata began bouldering at age 10 after he saw the sport on television.[7] At age 17, he won the lead competition at the 2015 Japan Youth National Championships,[8] as well as the bouldering competitions at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships[9] and the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships[10] in the Male Youth A (age 15–17) category. He won another bouldering gold medal as well as a combined silver medal at the World Youth Championships in 2017 in the Male Junior (age 17 to 19) category.[11]
Competition climbing
Ogata began competing in senior competitions at age 16,[7] entering the Chongqing and Laval World Cups in 2014.[1] At age 18, he won the gold medal in men's bouldering event at the 2016 IFSC Climbing Asian Championships, and collected a silver in bouldering and bronze in lead the following year.[1] Ogata won gold at the men's bouldering event at the 2017 World Games, where he qualified as the 2016 Asian champion.[12] He made his first World Cup podium finish with a bronze medal at the Vail World Cup in 2017,.[13] Ogata won his first World Cup event in bouldering at Vail in 2019[2] and won his second at Innsbruck in 2021.[3] At the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships, Ogata advanced to the men's final in lead, finishing 7th overall.[14] In 2022, Ogata made the finals in all six IFSC World Cup bouldering events, taking home one gold, two silver, and two bronze medals, and winning the overall title.
Climbing World Championships
Youth[1]
| Discipline | 2014 Youth A |
2015 Youth A |
2016 Juniors |
2017 Juniors |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 13 | 7 | - | 1 |
| Bouldering | - | 1 | 19 | 1 |
| Speed | - | - | - | - |
| Combined | - | - | - | 2 |
Adult[1]
| Discipline | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 31 | - | 7 |
| Bouldering | 15 | 14 | 8 |
| Speed | 110 | - | - |
| Combined | 29 | - | - |
World Cup podiums
Bouldering[1]
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2017 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2021 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2022 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 5 |
| 2023 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 3 | 3 | 5 | 11 |
See also
References
- 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 "YOSHIYUKI OGATA". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved September 24, 2021.
- 1 2 "History is Made in Vail: A Dark Horse and a Season Sweep". Rock & Ice. June 11, 2019. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- 1 2 Browne, Ken (June 26, 2021). "Janja Garnbret and Team Japan storm to victory at Innsbruck Sport Climbing World Cup". olympics.com. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ↑ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: BOULDER MEN". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved September 23, 2021.
- ↑ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2022: BOULDER MEN". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved July 16, 2022.
- ↑ "緒方 良行" (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- 1 2 "Friday Feat: One-Pinky Pull-Up". GymClimber. May 7, 2021. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ↑ "クライミング・日本ユース選手権2015" (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ↑ Murdoch, Shane (August 31, 2015). "Arco 2015, Day Four: Bouldering Results and Canadians Ready for Lead Comp". Gripped. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ↑ "IFSC クライミング・アジアユース選手権 プトラジャヤ 2015" (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ↑ "IFSC Youth World Championships 2017 Report". Gripped. August 7, 2018. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ↑ "The best climbing photos of the Wroclaw World Games 2017". Planet Mountain. July 26, 2017. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ↑ "Indoor Weekly: Watch Vail World Cup 2017 Highlights". Gripped. June 6, 2018. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
- ↑ Houston, Michael (September 21, 2021). "Schubert and Seo win lead golds on final day of IFSC Climbing World Championships". inside the games. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
External links
- JMSCA profile (in Japanese)