Action Directe
The route follows five bolts that are visible on the photo (quickdraws are clipped to the fourth and fifth bolt) and ends with the belay anchor (not visible).
Map showing the location of Action Directe
Map showing the location of Action Directe
Map showing the approximate location of Action Directe
LocationFrankenjura, Germany
Coordinates49°38′04″N 11°36′09″E / 49.63444°N 11.60250°E / 49.63444; 11.60250
Climbing AreaWaldkopf crag, Krottenseer Forst
Route TypeSport Climb
Vertical Gain15-metre (49 ft)
Pitches1
Rating9a (French), XI (UIAA), or 5.14d (YDS)
Bolted byMilan Sykora
First free ascentWolfgang Güllich, 14 September 1991.

Action Directe (French: [aksjɔ̄ diʁɛkt]) is a short 15-metre (49 ft) sport climb at the limestone Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany. When it was first climbed by German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, it became the first climb in the world to have a consensus 9a (5.14d) grade.[lower-alpha 1] Action Directe is considered an important and historic route in rock climbing history, and is one of the most attempted climbs at its grade, where it is considered the "benchmark" for the level of 9a. The plyometric training techniques and customized equipment that Güllich used to prepare for the unique physical demands of Action Directe also revolutionized climbing and what could be achieved.

History

A close friend of Güllich, German climber Milan Sykora introduced him to the route that he had been working on at a large limestone prow at the Waldkopf crag, which was akin to an enormous boulder.[3][4] Sykora was one of the leading German climbers at the time and had created several new routes UIAA grade X.[3] In the 1980s, Sykora had bolted a line coming from the right and had managed to climb the individual moves through the upper section, but believed the lower section feasible but too hard for himself – he generously offered the project to Güllich, who promptly bolted the direct start, and hence the name "Directe";[3][4] Güllich said that it also named after the French terror group Action directe as climbing it felt like an attack on the fingers.[4][5]

Güllich completed the first free ascent on 14 September 1991, after 11 days of working the route – spread over a three-week period – and using a 16-move sequence including a direct start with a dynamic jump into a two-finger pocket to redpoint it.[3] Güllich was 30 at the time and had been married just 5 days previously to freeing the route.[3] It took another four years until the route was repeated when East German climber Alexander Adler fulfilled what he described as an "obsession" to repeat the climb.[3] Subsequent climbers have used a slightly different circa 11 to 13-move sequence to Güllich's original very direct 16-move sequence.[3][4] At the 25-year anniversary of its first ascent, ten climbers who had completed the route assembled and estimated only Adler had repeated Güllich's exact 16-move sequence, and that all others had crossed slightly right to use a shorter sequence.[1]

Güllich conservatively assigned a UIAA grade of XI, which was between 8c+ (5.14c) and 9a (5.14d).[3] Subsequent ascents would verify its grade, which has since described as the "gold standard" or "benchmark" for 9a (5.14d);[1] and the first ever 9a in history.[6] It wasn't for almost another decade, until 2001 when Chris Sharma freed the 35-metre Realization/Biographie at Céüse in France, that a higher consensus 9a+ (5.15a) grade would be assigned.[7]

On 22 May 2020, French climber Mélissa Le Nevé made the first female free ascent and almost three decades after Güllich's original ascent was still only the 27th person to have climbed it.[8][9][10] Two of the 27 ascents, Richard Simpson (2005),[11][12] and Said Belhaj (2018), are disputed.[13][14]

Route

Action Directe is famous for its unique style, involving physically demanding dynamic moves (known as dynos in bouldering) off single-finger pockets in the limestone, and in particular, a powerful initial dynamic jump-start into a two-finger pocket while leaning back at an extreme angle of 45-degrees.[3][1] The route is short at 15-metre (49 ft) and took Güllich only 70-seconds to complete his very direct 16-move sequence; most ascents post the second ascent move rightwards to a more efficient 11 to 13 move sequence described as slightly easier than Güllich's original sequence (although still solidly 9a).[3][1]

After his 2016 ascent, German climber David Firnenburg described it as: "The initial dyno into the sharp two-finger pocket is followed by a passage with extreme lock-offs on small finger pockets. Then there are technically complicated side holds and pinches with difficult foot changes before you run out with a tricky must-hit crimp at the very end, where I still fell several times before sending".[1]

Legacy

Alex Megos on Action Directe

Action Directe has been consistently described as famous, legendary, and iconic in the climbing media,[9][15][16] and even in 2020, it was being described as "an absolute cornerstone of cutting-edge difficulties that attracts an irresistible draw for the vertical elite", and "... milestone 9a is one of the most famous and coveted sport climbs in the world".[15][9] Action Directe has also been described as "Güllich's masterpiece" – the testpiece for 9a (5.14d) – and when he freed the route, he was at the height of his physical and technical powers.[15]

Güllich had used new intensive training techniques called plyometrics to prepare for the physical demands of the climb, and introduced the climbing world to the "campus board", which would become the new standard for future extreme climbers to build finger strength and develop more dynamic muscle strength.[3][8]

Some have speculated whether English climber Ben Moon's 1990 ascent of the very short Hubble, with only 4 crux moves, was actually the world's first 9a (5.14d) route.[1][2] Repeat ascents of Hubble have verified it as being at least the world's first 8c+ (5.14c).[17][2] German climber Alex Megos, is one of the few who have climbed both Hubble and Action Directe, and felt Hubble was probably an 8c+ in the right conditions,[18] although Megos caveated himself by noting that grading is not an exact science, and is subject to the climber's own style.[17] In 2022, British climber Buster Martin became only the second climber to have climbed both routes and felt that they were both 9a; he did note that being sponsored by Ben Moon might make people skeptical of his view.[19]

The situation has been compared to the Realization versus Alexander Huber's Open Air debate on the world's first 9a+ (5.15a).[2] In fact, Huber attributes the initial conservative 8c+ (5.14c) grading of Action Directe that persisted for many years, despite it being eventually shown to be a "hard 9a", for artificially suppressing the grades of other routes in the 1990s, such as Huber's La Rambla, and Weisse Rose.[20]

Ascents

Action Directe has been ascended by:[15][21]

  • 1st Wolfgang Güllich, 14 September 1991
  • 2nd Alexander Adler, 9 September 1995
  • 3rd Iker Pou, 7 June 2000
  • 4th Dave Graham, 21 May 2001
  • 5th Christian Bindhammer, 14 May 2003
  • 6th Richard Simpson, 2005 (disputed)[11][12]
  • 7th Dai Koyamada, 15 October 2005
  • 8th Markus Bock, 22 October 2005[22]
  • 9th Kilian Fischhuber, September 2006
  • 10th Adam Ondra, 19 May 2008[23]
  • 11th Patxi Usobiaga, 24 October 2008
  • 12th Gabriele Moroni, 17 April 2010
  • 13th Jan Hojer, 22 May 2010[24]
  • 14th Adam Pustelnik, 10 October 2010[25]
  • 15th Felix Knaub, October 2011[26]
  • 16th Rustam Gelmanov, 26 March 2012
  • 17th Alexander Megos, 3 May 2014[16]
  • 18th Felix Neumärker, 16 May 2015[27]
  • 19th Julius Westphal, 25 June 2015[28]
  • 20th Stefano Carnati, 14 June 2016[29]
  • 21st David Firnenburg, November 2016[1][30]
  • 22nd Stephan Vogt, 2017.[31]
  • 23rd Simon Lorenzi, 2017[32]
  • 24th Said Belhaj, 2018 (disputed)[13][14]
  • 25th Stefan Scarperi, 2 November 2018.[33]
  • 26th Adrian Chmiała, 5 May 2019[34]
  • 27th Mélissa Le Nevé, May 2020; first female[8][9][10]
  • 28th Phillip Gaßner, May 2021[35]
  • 29th Buster Martin, October 2022[19][36]
  • 30th Vojtěch Trojan, April 2023[37]
  • 31st Moritz Welt, October 2023[21]
  • 32nd Stefano Ghisolfi, November 2023[38]

First female free ascents (FFFA):

Filmography

  • Dai Koyamada's 2005 ascent: Action Directe (Motion picture). Frontier Spirits Productions. 2006. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  • Jan Hojer's 2014 (second) ascent: Falquet, Nicolas (director) (May 2014). Rock Climbing Classics: Episode 2 – Action Directe 9a (Motion picture). Mammut. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  • Stephan Vogt's 2017 ascent: Funke, Alexej (director) (October 2017). The Fire Within (Motion picture). Mad Rock Climbing. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  • Mélissa Le Nevé's 2020 ascent: Lowell, Josh (director), Mortimer, Peter (director) (2020). ReelRock 15 (Motion picture). Sender Films. Retrieved 27 December 2021.

See also

Notes

  1. ↑ Some climbers have speculated whether English climber Ben Moon's 1990 ascent of the even shorter Hubble, with only 4 crux moves, was actually the world's first climb at 9a (5.14d); Hubble was already considered the world's first 8c+ (5.14c).[1][2]

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Firnenburg, David (2016). "Ascending "Action Directe" in the past and today". firnenburgbrothers.com. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  2. 1 2 3 4 "Was Ben Moon's Hubble the World's First 5.14d?". Gripped.com. 9 November 2020. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  3. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Nicholas Hobley. "Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece". Planet Mountain. Retrieved December 27, 2021.
  4. 1 2 3 4 "Action Directe, World's First 5.14d, Turns 25". Gripped.com. 14 September 2016. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  5. ↑ Tilman Hepp: Wolfgang Güllich. Leben in der Senkrechten. Eine Biographie. 1. Auflage. Rosenheimer Verlagshaus Alfred Förg, Rosenheim 1993, ISBN 3-475-52747-2, S. 125.
  6. ↑ Oviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012). "The evolution of free climbing". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
  7. ↑ "Chris Sharma climbs Biographie!". PlanetMountain.com. 19 July 2001. Retrieved 22 December 2021.
  8. 1 2 3 4 Slavsky, Brett (26 May 2020). "Mélissa Le Nevé Sends Action Directe (9a/5.14d)". Climbing. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  9. 1 2 3 4 5 "Mélissa Le Nevé Becomes First Woman To Climb "Action Directe" (9a/5.14d)". Rock & Ice. 21 May 2020. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  10. 1 2 3 Honneger, Jasmine (26 August 2022). "Use Your Curiosity To Become A Better Climber". Climbing. Retrieved 9 September 2022.
  11. 1 2 "Rich Simpson & The Burden Of Proof". Climbing Arc. 21 December 2010. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  12. 1 2 "Rich Simpson - UKC's Position". UKClimbing.com. 21 December 2010. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  13. 1 2 "Huch accuses Belhaj to lie about Action Direct". 8a.nu. 7 December 2019. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  14. 1 2 "Exclusive: This is what Said Belhaj says in response to the accusations of Hannes Huch". lacrux.com. 12 December 2019. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  15. 1 2 3 4 "Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece". PlanetMountain.com. 21 May 2020. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  16. 1 2 "Alexander Megos, the Action Directe Frankenjura interview". PlanetMountain.com. 6 May 2014. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  17. 1 2 "Alexander Megos climbs Hubble. The Raven Tor interview". PlanetMountain.com. 3 June 2016. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  18. ↑ "This is what Alex Megos says about the dispute over the title "First 9a in the world"". LACrux.com. 24 December 2020. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  19. 1 2 Miller, Delaney (10 November 2022). "Was 'Hubble' or 'Action Directe' the First 9a? Buster Martin Weighs In". Climbing. Retrieved 20 November 2022.
  20. ↑ Hobley, Nicholas (3 October 2008). "Alexander Huber interview". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  21. 1 2 Pardy, Aaron (16 October 2023). "Action Directe 5.14d is Repeated for 30th Time". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 6 December 2023.
  22. ↑ Dougald MacDonald (30 May 2012). "Action Directe: It's a Trade Route". Climbing.com. Retrieved March 15, 2018.
  23. ↑ "Adam Ondra repeats Action Directe, Frankenjura". Planet Mountain. Retrieved March 15, 2018.
  24. ↑ "Rock Climbing Classics: Episode 2 – Jan Hojer Climbs Action Directe (5.14d)". Rock and Ice. 21 May 2014. Retrieved March 15, 2018.
  25. ↑ Wojciech Słowakiewicz (10 October 2010). "Action Directe by Adam Pustelnik!". Serwis Wspinaczkowy wspinanie.pl. Archived from the original on 15 October 2010. Retrieved 12 October 2010.
  26. ↑ "Felix Knaub hat "Action directe" (11) im Frankenjura geklettert". Archived from the original on November 12, 2011. Retrieved November 23, 2011.
  27. ↑ ClimbingNews (May 26, 2015). "Felix Neumärker Repeats Two 9a's in Three Days". Archived from the original on September 11, 2015. Retrieved May 26, 2015.
  28. ↑ Toni Lonobile for Wildclimb (June 27, 2015). "Interview of Julius Westphal!". Archived from the original on January 7, 2016. Retrieved June 27, 2015.
  29. ↑ "Stefano Carnati Sends Action Directe (5.14d), Frankenjura". Rock & Ice. 15 June 2016. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  30. ↑ "Action Directe 9a by David Firnenburg". 8a.nu. 3 November 2016. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  31. ↑ Stephan Vogt bezwingt »Action Directe«, retrieved 6th April 2017
  32. ↑ Quentin Coster. "Simon Lorenzi enchaîne "Action Directe", son premier 9a !" (in French). Archived from the original on 2017-05-13. Retrieved 2017-05-15.
  33. ↑ ""Action Directe" (5.14d) by Stefan Scarperi". 6 November 2018.
  34. ↑ "Legendarne "Action Directe" dla Adriana Chmiały!". wspinanie.pl. 5 May 2019. Retrieved 9 September 2022.
  35. ↑ "This Climber Crushes the Notoriously Difficult Action Directe". Climbing. 11 May 2021. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  36. ↑ "Action Directe 5.14d Sent by Top U.K. Climber". Gripped.com. 12 October 2022. Retrieved 5 November 2022.
  37. ↑ "Vojta Tojan: Action Directe 9a". Lezec.cz. 29 April 2023. Retrieved 29 April 2023.
  38. ↑ Pardy, Aaron (4 November 2023). "Stefano Ghisolfi Sends the Legendary Action Directe 5.14d". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 13 November 2023.
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