Spanish colonial era

In 1868, a Spanish military expedition was dispatched to study the possibility of relocating the Cavite Naval Station in Subic Bay due to its unhealthy condition.

Spanish King Alfonso XII through a Royal Decree made Subic Bay (then called Subig) as Spain's stronghold in the Far East in 1884. Vice Admiral Juan Bautista de Antiquiera made Olongapo a settlement for the Spanish Navy.

On March 8, 1885, the Spanish Naval commission authorized construction of the Arsenal in Olongapo. The Spanish planned to transform their naval station and the village of Olongapo into an island, safeguarding it from potential rebel attacks. The Spanish Navy Yard occupied the entire area east of the Spanish Gate. Employing Filipino labor, they did extensive dredging of the harbor and the inner basin and built a drainage canal. The canal served both to drain the swampy area around the yard and also to form a line of defense.

Within ten years, the Spaniards had erected walls and markers to fence off the arsenal. They had shops and buildings erected. The Spanish government spent almost fifteen years developing the naval station. From higher naval commands, the order was sent to fortify Grande Island at the mouth of Subic Bay with mines and cannons. However, this project had barely commenced when it was abruptly interrupted by the overwhelming defeat of the Spanish Navy in Manila Bay at the hands of US Admiral George Dewey.^{[10][11][12][13]}

American occupation

Aerial view of the Olongapo Naval Station in 1928

On May 1, 1898, the construction of the Spanish Administration Building was nearly complete when Admiral Dewey's flagship, USS Olympia, led the Asiatic Fleet into Manila Bay. A detachment of Dewey's fleet bombarded the navy yard. Eventually, after the surrender, Spain relinquished all her rights in the Philippines to the United States. This marked the end of more than three hundred years of Spanish rule over the islands.

Realizing the tremendous importance of Olongapo as a naval facility, the U.S. Navy decided to keep the base in functioning order; US President Theodore Roosevelt, on November 9, 1901, by executive order, reserved the waters of Subic and some of the adjacent lands for naval purposes.

The naval station was widened and with the establishment of the American rule in the Philippines. American defenses in the islands were facilities left by the Spanish Navy which were taken over by the United States.

Olongapo grew in direct proportion to the growth of the naval station. More people came to live in Olongapo since the Navy offered employment. To most Filipinos during that time, it was a welcome change. The promise of a different kind of experience as shop workers and office help induced many young men to leave their farms and fishing boats to work in the Navy Yard. Others finding the lure of the sea irresistible joined the U.S. Navy.

Olongapo impressed its visitors as being one of the finest communities in the country. People passing through the town never failed to comment on its cleanliness and orderliness.^[10][11]

Japanese occupation

When the war broke out in 1941, the old town was obliterated. Olongapo was twice destroyed.

On December 14, 1941, Japanese bombers attacked the Olongapo/Subic Bay area. Ten days later, the order was given to burn Subic Bay Naval Station and withdraw. Olongapo was set aflame by the Filipinos in anticipation of the Japanese arrival. The USS New York was scuttled in Subic Bay.^[14] When the American forces made a last-ditch stand on the Bataan peninsula, the Naval Station was abandoned and most of its facilities were burned before the Japanese came.

In 1945, Olongapo was again bombed, shelled and burned. Joint American and Philippine Commonwealth ground troops aided guerrilla fighters in liberating Olongapo from the Japanese forces. With the exceptions of the Station Chapel (the Olongapo Parish Church before the war) and the Spanish Gate, none of its former landmarks withstood the war. The general headquarters between the United States Army, Philippine Commonwealth Army & Philippine Constabulary were located in Olongapo during and after World War II, and were active until 1946 after operating against the Japanese for the liberation of Central Luzon.

Philippine independence

In 1946, the Philippines was granted independence. Olongapo was one of the principal naval bases retained by the United States. The Navy started rebuilding the town after hostilities ceased. Olongapo was built on a new undeveloped site a couple of miles north of its former location. The prewar town site became part of the base.

The first few years after the war were difficult for the new town, as everything in the new Olongapo was damaged. There were no electric power and no drainage system. The water supply and sanitation facilities were inadequate, and streets were unpaved.^[11] Gradually, Olongapo evolved into a new community: new businesses were established, housing projects were planned and civic facilities were restored.

During the Korean War, the United States spent over US$170 million to convert the base into the homeport of the Navy's Seventh Fleet, developing the Cubi Naval Air Station as the largest US installation of its kind in Asia. Naval authorities relocated the residence from the area of the former Public Works Center area to the intersection of what is now known as Rizal Avenue and Ramon Magsaysay Drive, and in the Barangays New Asinan and New Kalalake areas. Zoning of Olongapo was patterned after American practice where streets are constructed along straight lines. The magnitude of facilities construction in the Olongapo and Subic Bay area brought growth and prosperity to Olongapo. By 1956, migrants from nearby towns and provinces had swelled the population to 39,180.^[15]

Cityhood

Bridge leading to NS Subic Bay, 1981

Unlike the rest of the Philippines which gained independence from the United States after World War II in 1946, Olongapo was governed as a part of the United States naval reservation. The Subic Bay Naval Base commanding officer was chairman of the Olongapo town council, school board, and hospital board. Olongapo's 60,000 Filipino residents paid taxes to the US Navy and those accused of crimes involving American servicemen were tried in US Navy courts. In July 1955, Manila mayor Arsenio Lacson announced that American service personnel accused of crimes in Manila would be tried in Philippine courts because of US Navy abuses of Filipinos in Olongapo.

On October 23, 1959, Olongapo was placed under martial law when Robert Grant, the American owner of an Olongapo auto parts store was killed and the US Navy declined to identify or try the Naval Supply Depot sentry who shot him.^[16]

Olongapo was the last piece of Philippine territory surrendered by the United States to the country in the 1950s.^[11][17] On December 7, 1959, 56,000 acres of land with electrical, telephone and water utilities was relinquished to Philippine Secretary of Foreign Affairs Felixberto Serrano.^[16] The first mayor appointed was civic leader Ruben Geronimo. He was later succeeded by business entrepreneur Ildefonso Arriola.

Six years later, through the efforts of Representative Ramon Magsaysay Jr. in Congress and Senator Genaro Magsaysay in the Senate, President Ferdinand Marcos signed R.A. 4645. Olongapo was reconverted to a chartered city on June 1, 1966.^[4] The adjacent U.S. Naval Base Subic Bay headed by Manuel Ardonia was the largest US Navy installation in the Pacific at the time, and employed 15,000 Filipino civilians. The base was visited by 215 ships per month as the Vietnam War peaked in 1967. The nightclubs along Ramon Magsaysay Drive between the naval base main gate and Rizal Avenue were notoriously popular among the 4,225,000 servicemen visiting the base that year.^[18] Talented Filipino musicians and singers, inexpensive San Miguel beer, attractive teenage prostitutes, erotic floor shows, Jeepney rides back to the naval base and children diving for coins tossed from the bridge over the estuarine drainage channel in front of the naval base main gate were popular amenities among the sailors.^[19][20][21] Olongapo was then upgraded as a highly urbanized city on December 7, 1983.

Mount Pinatubo eruption

Mount Pinatubo ash covers Naval Station Subic Bay

On June 15, 1991, Mount Pinatubo, 20 miles (32 kilometres) from the city, violently erupted with a force eight times greater than the May 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens. Volcanic clouds blocked out the sun. Volcanic earthquakes and heavy muddy rain, as well as thunderstorms from a typhoon passing over Central Luzon, darkened the area for 36 hours in what would become known as "Black Saturday".^[22] This caused widespread damage to the United States facility and Olongapo City.

On September 16, 1991, the Senate leaders of the Philippines did not grant an extension of the existing RP-US Military Bases Agreement between the Republic of the Philippines and the United States, thus terminating the stay of the United States military in the Philippines.

Contemporary era

The U.S. flag is lowered and Philippine flag is raised during turnover of Naval Station Subic Bay.

Olongapo surged to national prominence during the incumbency of Mayor Richard Gordon, who, like his father before him, was against the departure of US military forces, yet lobbied for the turnover of the facility and its conversion into a freeport in 1992. Gordon spearheaded a volunteerism strategy to return an ailing economy to prosperity after Mount Pinatubo's eruption and the withdrawal of US forces. The strategy worked across all demographics and involved a strong corps of 8,000 volunteers who protected and preserved the abandoned base facilities from poachers. Gordon complemented this with an aggressive advocacy campaign to convert the area into a protected area and industrial zone. Later, he launched an aggressive international investment promotion which resulted in the accelerating the development of a prime industrial and tourism zone in the country, the Subic Bay Freeport Zone (SBFZ).^[22]

As the first chartered city and highly urbanized city in its province, Olongapo's reputation among Filipinos rose from being a "sin city" in the 1960s and 1970s into a "model city" in the 1980s, 1990s and 2000s.^[17]

Climate

Olongapo has a tropical monsoon climate (Köppen climate classification: Am).^[26] Temperatures are relatively cooler during the months of December, January and February, and increase slightly from March to May, which are the warmest months of the year in this part of the Philippines.

The months of December to April are extremely dry but the wet season persists for the remaining period in a year. In August, the monthly rainfall total even reaches 40.87 millimetres (1.609 inches).

The city receives an average of 3,375 millimetres (132.9 in) rainfall every year. Temperatures range from an average of around 26.3 degrees Celsius (79.3 degrees Fahrenheit) degrees in January to around 29.4 °C (84.9 °F) in April.

Barangays

Business district in Olongapo which includes the barangays of Asinan, East Tapinac, New Kalalake, and Pag-asa

Olongapo is politically subdivided into 17 barangays. ^[27] Each barangay consists of puroks and some have sitios.

Language

The city's population speaks a wide array of the nation's main languages, specifically: Tagalog, Sambal, Kapampangan, Pangasinan and Ilocano. The phenomenon of mixing native languages with English (e.g. Taglish, a mixture of Tagalog and English) is also common, especially amongst the youth. Many more languages are also spoken from other denominations of people.

Religion

Saint Joseph Parish Church

Majority of the people of Olongapo are Roman Catholics, followed by members of the Iglesia ni Cristo. Protestants, Evangelicals, Born Again, Jehovah's Witnesses, Mormons, Members Church of God International, Nichiren Buddhism (Sokka Gakkai International), United Methodist Church, and Islam are also present.

Local government

Olongapo City Hall

Former flag of the city

Seal of the city, NHCP version.

As highly urbanized city in the province of Zambales, only the city government officials are voted by the electorates of the city. The provincial government has no political jurisdiction over local transactions of the city government. Residents of this city are not allowed to run in the provincial level except for congress representation which the city of Olongapo forms part of Zambales's 1st congressional district.

The city of Olongapo is governed by a City Mayor designated as its Local Chief Executive and by a City Council as its Legislative body in accordance with the Local Government Code. Both the Mayor and the ten City Councilors are elected directly by the people through an election which is being held every three years.

Barangays are also headed by elected officials: Barangay Captain, Barangay Council, whose members are called Barangay Councilors. The barangays have SK federation which represents the barangay, headed by SK chairperson and whose members are called SK councilors. All officials are also elected every three years.

Mayors

The following is the list of all Mayors that ruled Olongapo after World War II:

Name	Term	Position
Ruben Geronimo	November 1959 – 1962	Municipal Mayor
Ildefonso Arriola	1962 – 1964	Municipal Mayor
James Gordon	January 1, 1964 – June 1, 1966	Municipal Mayor
James Gordon	June 1, 1966 – February 20, 1967	City Mayor
Jaime Guevarra	February 20, 1967 – 1968	City Mayor
Amelia (née Juico) Gordon	January 1, 1968 – June 30, 1972	City Mayor
Geronimo Lipumano[32]	July 1972 – May 1980	City Mayor
Richard Gordon	June 30, 1980 – April 23, 1986	City Mayor (1st term)
Teodoro Macapagal	March 1986 – November 1987	OIC Mayor
Teodoro Macapagal	November 1987 – January 1988	OIC Mayor
Richard Gordon	February 2, 1988 – March 13, 1992	City Mayor (2nd term)
Cynthia Cajudo	March 13, 1992 – March 21, 1995	City Mayor
Rexy Gregorio Cruz	March 22, 1995 – June 30, 1995	City Mayor (Acting)
Katherine Gordon	June 30, 1995 – June 30, 2004	City Mayor
James Gordon, Jr.	June 30, 2004 – June 30, 2013	City Mayor
Rolen Calixto Paulino Sr.	June 30, 2013 – September 3, 2018	City Mayor
Lugie Lipumano-Garcia	September 3, 2018 – March 3, 2019	OIC Mayor
Rolen Calixto Paulino Sr.	March 4, 2019 – June 30, 2019	City Mayor
Rolen Co Paulino Jr.	July 1, 2019 – present	City Mayor

Congress representation

Olongapo, belonging to the 1st District of Zambales. It is currently represented by congressman Jefferson F. Khonghun.

Public safety

Transportation

Sea Port

Ship docked at Alava Wharf, Port of Subic Bay, Olongapo.

Olongapo is served by the Port of Subic Bay, operated and managed by the Subic Bay Metropolitan Authority. Some facilities of the seaport are located on the Olongapo portion of the Subic Freeport Zone namely the Alava, Bravo, and Rivera Wharves.

Public transportation

Vehicles including public jeepneys along Maharlika Highway in front of the public market.

The city boasts its color-coded public transportation system which it has pioneered in the country. All public utility jeepneys and tricycles have its own color code depending on the district, zone or route that it is serving. Taxi services are also operated in the city but are limited.

Public Utilities