Topography and geology

The town lies in the valley of the River Witham, its core at the Witham's confluence with the Mowbeck (or Mow Beck).^[11] The Witham flows south–north through Grantham.^[12] The Mowbeck, which rises from springs at Harlaxton about 3 miles (4.8 km) to the south-west of the town,^[13] is culverted behind Westgate and Brook Street^[11] until it joins the Witham at White Bridge.^[14]

The floor of the Witham valley – 50–60 m above sea level in the town centre – is underlain by mudstone of the Charmouth formation of the Lower Jurassic period (199–183 million years ago). This formation is overlain by Belton sand and gravel laid down in estuaries and rivers in the Quaternary period up to 3 million years ago. The river courses are overlain by Quaternary alluvium and to the north by river terrace deposits.^[15] The soil around the route of the Witham is wet, acidic, sandy and loamy; its fertility is poor.^[16]

As the ground rises on the town's eastern and southern fringes, it is underlain by Jurassic Marlstone rocks of ferruginous sandstone and ironstone formed 190–174 million years ago, and then by Whitby Mudstone of 174–183 million years ago. The land rises sharply to form the Lincoln Cliff that marks the edge of the urban area and start of the Lincoln Heath and Kesteven Uplands, which are capped by Jurassic Oolitic Limestone,^[15][17][18] mostly overlain by shallow, free-draining, lime-rich soils.^[16]

To the west, the town is near the edge of the low-lying Vale of Belvoir^[19] but fringed by an escarpment^[20] rising in places to over 100 m to form the hills on which sit Barrowby, Great Gonerby, the Green Hill and Earlesfield suburban areas and the business parks off Trent Road. These hills are of siltstone and mudstone of the Jurassic Dyrham Formation, which line the edges of the Witham and Mowbeck valleys and the shallow valley of Barrowby Stream. At its highest the scarp is capped by Jurassic ferruginous sandstone and ironstone rocks of the Marlstone formation. There are some head deposits and pleistocene glaciofluvial deposits of sand and gravel east of Barrowby.^[15] The soil in the lower areas is slowly permeable, seasonally wet and slightly acidic, though base-rich. On higher ground it tends to be slightly acidic and base-rich, but freely draining and highly fertile.^[16]

Grantham Canal, which opened in 1797,^[21] closely follows the route of the Mowbeck from Echo Farm into the town. West of there it cuts through a valley north of Harlaxton into the Vale of Belvoir, eventually reaching West Bridgford near Nottingham.^[22]

Urban area

Map of Grantham town centre. London Road, Wharf Road, Sankt Augustin Way and Barrowby Road form the A52. Harlaxton Road is the A607.

The historical core of Grantham is bounded by Westgate, Brook Street and Castlegate, and includes the High Street down to St Peter's Hill. This is the town's main retail and commercial area. It includes many historic buildings. Between Westgate and the A52 to the west are postwar retail buildings and blocks of flats. North of it is 18th, 19th and 20th-century suburban housing focused on North Parade, which include villas and terraced housing.^[23] Further north, off Gonerby Road and Manthorpe Road (A607), these give way to large, low-density, suburban, privately owned housing on estates mostly built in the 1970s and 1980s. Those at the base of Gonerby Hill are known as Gonerby Hill Foot and lie west of the railway line, to the east of which developments are contiguous with the historical core of Manthorpe village.^{[24][n 2]}

South of the town centre, suburban housing takes the form of late-Victorian and Edwardian brick, terraced and villa houses in grid-plan layouts, initially built for industrial workers and now largely owned or let privately.^[26] Alongside some housing in Harlaxton Road (A607), most of these streets cluster round the railway station and nearby retail and industrial units in an area known as Spittlegate (also spelled Spitalgate or Spittalgate), the town cemetery – an area called New Somerby in older maps – and the Wharf Road, London Road and Bridge End Road stretches of the A52.^[22][27][28] Further south-east, low-density, mostly privately owned, suburban housing estates of the 1970s and 1980s cluster round the A52, marking the edge of the town's urban area.^[29] Further east, off the A52, are the Prince William of Gloucester Barracks.^[22]

The north-east fringe of the urban area is marked by 20th-century development. An exception is a piece of land east of the Witham and north of Stonebridge Road that includes schools and colleges and portions of a 19th-century barracks complex south of greenspace, including Wyndham Park. Otherwise the area between the Witham, Belton Lane, Londonthorpe Lane and the Lincoln Cliff has suburban housing, mostly privately owned with some let by housing associations. It includes part of the Harrowby Estate, begun in 1928 as council housing). The part round Belton Lane and Harrowby Lane is a low-density mix of pre-First World War, interwar and postwar houses; the remainder of the large estate and the Cherry Orchard Estate appeared in the immediate postwar period in medium density, on a layout inspired by the Garden City movement. South of Londonthorpe Lane and north-east of the other estates are medium and high-density housing areas dating largely from the 1970s to the early 21st century;^[30][31] The northernmost, known as The Spinney or Sunningdale,^[9] adjoins the post-war Alma Park industrial estate off Londonthorpe Lane.^[32]

The town's western fringe sits between the railway line, the A1 bypass and the Kesteven Uplands. North of the canal are large, varied developments mostly from the 20th century, including the Earlesfield estate, begun as a council estate in the 1920s and expanded in the postwar period, industrial estates, and a leisure centre complex, all south of Barrowby Stream, by the expansive 1980s estate on Green Hill, the Edwardian and Victorian villas lining Barrowby Road, and the large 1980s and 1990s estate to its north. Most of this is privately owned, but some is let by housing associations. The canal basin is lined with industrial, warehouse, retail and office buildings that continue up to Dysart Road. South of them are Harlaxton Road (A607) and Springfield Road, round which separate residential developments have been built, including inter-war homes in Huntingtower Road, a 21st-century estate centred on Hudson Way, post-war social housing at Walton Gardens, post-war housing Denton Avenue, and late-20th-century developments at Harris Way.^[31][33]

Climate

The British Isles experience a temperate, maritime climate with warm summers and cool winters.^[34] Data from the weather station nearest to Grantham, at Cranwell, 10 miles (16 km) away, shows an average daily mean temperature of 9.8 °C (49.6 °F) fluctuates from a peak of 16.9 °C (62.4 °F) in July to 3.9 °C (39.0 °F) in January. The average high temperature is 13.7 °C (56.7 °F), though monthly averages vary from 6.7 °C (44.1 °F) in January and December to 21.8 °C (71.2 °F) in July; the average low is 5.9 °C (42.6 °F), reaching lowest in February at 0.8 °C (33.4 °F) and highest in July and August at 12.0 °C (53.6 °F).^[35]

Origins

The local historian Michael Honeybone has "no doubt that the town of Grantham was established during [Anglo-]Saxon times"; its name suggests it emerged in the earliest phase of Anglo-Saxon settlement, probably by the 7th century.^[39] The archaeological evidence for this is limited to finds indicating cemeteries at the sites of the Central School in Manthorpe and the junction of Bridge End Road and London Road in the town, and to small quantities of pottery sherds found on London Road, Belton Lane, Saltersford, New Somerby and Barrowby.^[43]

The town's Saxon-period history is obscure and debated.^[44] The medievalist Sir Frank Stenton argued that Grantham probably emerged as an "important estate centre" before the Viking invasions in the 9th century and then functioned as a "minor local capital" in the Danelaw.^[45] By contrast, the historian David Roffe has argued that the town and its outlying soke were established in the 1040s or 1050s by Queen Edith and Leofric, Earl of Mercia, to strengthen their hands in the county at the expense of Siward, Earl of Northumbria. They may have also created St Wulfram's Church either as a new place of worship or as one revived from a possible earlier cell of Crowland Abbey. Roffe argues that Siward's death in 1055 made Grantham's new role less important; as such, its soke only grew to its full extent after the Norman Conquest of England, when the king merged it with the soke of Great Ponton.^[46] Whatever its origins, by the time of the Domesday Book (1086, the earliest documentary evidence for the settlement), Grantham was a town and royal manor; under its jurisdiction fell soke comprising lands in 16 villages. St Wulfram's served this extended parish area.^[44]

Royal manor

Grantham's Domesday entries show it as an estate centre, where Queen Edith had a hall before 1066. Twenty years later, the king had the manor; there were four mills and eight acres of meadow, but no arable land. The demesne appears to have been land now known as Earlesfield in Great Gonerby. There were 111 burgesses and 72 bordars, possibly labourers or craftsmen, indicating that Grantham was both a manor and a borough where the lord retained exclusive rights.^{[47][n 3]} It was a valuable asset, used by the king to reward loyal followers.^[49] By 1129, the manor and soke had been granted to Rabel de Tancarville, the king's chamberlain in Normandy. He sided against King Stephen during The Anarchy (1135–1154) and his lands were probably forfeited on his death in 1140, although restored to his son William and confirmed in the early 1180s.^[50] The king retook the manor after William's heir Ralph de Tancarville failed to support him in Normandy.^[49]

In 1205, the king granted it to his ally William de Warenne, 5th Earl of Surrey. It was held as a life interest and reverted to the Crown on his widow's death in 1249, but regranted to his son the 6th earl in 1266. On his death in 1304 it reverted to the crown and was soon granted to Aymer de Valence, but had been regranted to Warenne's grandson, the 7th earl, by 1312. Four years later it was resettled on the 7th earl for life with reversion to the crown. William de Bohun, 1st Earl of Northampton was granted the reversion in 1337 and took seisin ten years later. After his death, it reverted again to the Crown and in 1363 Edward II granted it to his son Edmund of Langley, Duke of York, through whose heirs it passed to Richard of York, 3rd Duke of York,^[51] a major figure in the Wars of the Roses and rival of Henry VI. After Richard's death in 1460, Henry's Queen Margaret of Anjou attacked Grantham in 1461, but later that year was defeated by Richard's son Edward, who took the throne as Edward IV. Two years later, Grantham was rewarded for loyalty to the Yorkist cause when the king granted the borough a charter of incorporation, as a self-governing council – the Corporation of Grantham headed by an Alderman – with various freedoms.^{[52][n 4]}

Economy and government

Watercolour and graphite painting of Grantham Church by J. M. W. Turner (1797)

Its lords encouraged Grantham to expand as a commercial centre.^[59] By the late 11th century it was an "important market town".^[60] The wool trade prospered, benefiting from its proximity to grazing lands on the Lincoln Heath. This wealth contributed towards the building of St Wulfram's Church.^[61] Wool shops were in Grantham in 1218^[61] and Walkergate (now Watergate) was recorded in 1257, indicating the presence of fullers (walkers), who played a role in processing wool. Cloth manufacture declined around this time, but wool continued to be produced for trading, primarily for export from Boston. Wool merchants are recorded from the town in the late 13th century (foremost being was Roger de Belvoir, who contributed over £296 to the Wool Prize of 1297). By this time merchants from Italy,^[62] Saint-Omer and Amiens were active in the town.^[63]

In 1269, the earl granted the town free tronage – the right to weigh wool without paying a toll. Less than 30 years later, its merchants were asked to send a representative to counsel the king.^[59] The wool trade boomed in the early 14th century; the town's merchants traded at least 980 sacks of wool at Boston during Edward II's reign, half from the de Chesterton family.^[64] In 1312, the earl granted the burgesses various freedoms and the right to elect a leader (the Alderman), codifying a longstanding informal arrangement.^[65] Later in the century the king sought to raise revenues by taxing the wool trade; some Grantham merchants, including the wealthy Roger de Wollesthorpe, acted as creditors to the king.^[66]

England's falling population, continued taxation of wool exports and the growth of cloth exports and monopolisation led to the wool trade declining by the mid-15th century.^[67] Cloth exports became more important nationally. Grantham had a small cloth industry, but it could not compete with new fulling mills, which required fast-flowing water.^[68] Its merchants continued to trade in wool and it remained a dominant aspect of the town's economy.^[66] Other industries also existed during the Middle Ages; there is evidence of wine trading, brewing, parchment making, weaving and other trades and crafts.^[68]

The bridging of the River Trent at Newark by the late 12th century realigned the Great North Road so that it passed through Grantham,^[69] bringing traffic to the town as an important stopping place and leading to the development of inns such as The George and The Angel.^[70] By the 16th century, the economy was diverse. The largest sector was the leather trade, employing a quarter of the known workforce; distribution, food, drink and agricultural trades were also important. By that time, clothing and textiles each accounted for less than 10 per cent of the town's workers.^[71]

19th and 20th centuries

The Lincoln Theatre Company of actors took a 21-year lease on the theatre in 1800.^[72] Westgate Hall, which was commissioned as the local corn exchange, was completed in 1852.^[73]

The town developed when the railway came. The Nottingham Line (LNER) arrived first in 1850, then the London line (GNR) – the Towns Line from Peterborough to Retford – arrived in 1852. The Boston, Sleaford and Midland Counties Railway arrived in 1857.^{[74][75][76][77]}

Gas lighting appeared in 1833. The corporation became a borough council in 1835. Little Gonerby and Spittlegate were added to the borough in 1879. The town had been in the wapentake of Loveden and included three townships of Manthorpe with Little Gonerby, Harrowby and Spittlegate with Houghton and Walton.^[77][78][79]

Grantham Golf Club, now defunct, was founded in 1894 and continued until the onset of the Second World War.^[80]

Until the 1970s, the housing estates west of the town centre were green fields. Green Hill, on the A52, was literally a green hill.^[77][79] In July 1975 the National Association of Ratepayers' Action Groups (NARAG) was formed in Grantham by John Wilks, its chairman, as a forerunner of the TaxPayers' Alliance.

Military history

Army barracks, next to the A52, east of the town

The town has a long military history since the completion of the Old Barracks in 1858.^[81]

Women's police force

Grantham was first after London to recruit and train women police officers. It was the first provincial force to ask the newly formed Corps of Women's Police Volunteers to supply them with occasional policewomen, recognising them as useful for dealing with women and juveniles. In December 1914 Miss Damer Dawson, the Chief of the Corps, came to Grantham to supervise the preliminary work of the women police. Officers stationed there were Miss Allen and Miss Harburn.^[92] In 1915, Grantham magistrates swore in Edith Smith, making her the first policewoman in Britain with full powers of arrest.^[93]

Industrial history

Richard Hornsby & Sons

Richard Hornsby and Richard Seaman founded Seaman & Hornsby, Iron Founders and Millwrights, at Spittlegate in Grantham in 1810. The company was renamed Richard Hornsby & Sons when Seaman retired in 1828.^[94] Products included ploughs and seed drills.

From 1840 until 1906 the company built steam engines. Thereafter production shifted to oil, petrol and gas engines. It employed 378 men in 1878 and 3,500 in 1914.^[95]

In 1905 Richard Hornsby & Sons invented a caterpillar track for a machine using Hornsby's oil engines; these engines were developed by Yorkshireman Herbert Akroyd Stuart, from which compression-ignition principle the diesel engine evolved, being manufactured in Grantham from 8 July 1892.^[96] Although such engines were not wholly compression-ignition derived, in 1892 a prototype high-pressure version was built at Hornsby's, developed by Thomas Henry Barton OBE – later to found Nottingham's Barton Transport – whereby ignition was achieved solely through compression; it ran continuously for six hours as the first known diesel engine. In the town, Hornsby's built Elsham House, whose grounds became Grantham College) and the Shirley Croft. Its site in Houghton Road was bought from Lord Dysart.

Hornsby oil engine at the Museum of Lincolnshire Life

In 1910 Hornsby presented its chain-track vehicle to the British Army, which then bought four caterpillar tractors to tow artillery. At the demonstration, a British transport officer suggested putting armour plating and a gun on a Hornsby tractor, so creating some sort of self-propelled gun. David Roberts, managing director of Hornsby, did not pursue the idea, but later expressed regret at not having done so. Four years later, Hornsby sold the patent for its caterpillar track to the Holt Manufacturing Company of California, USA, for $8,000, having itself sold only one caterpillar tractor commercially.^[97] The Holt system was superior to Hornsby's, but the Hornsby transmission was what Holt really wanted. Thanks in part to this acquisition, Holt eventually became the successful Caterpillar Inc. Tractor Company. In 1918, Hornsby's amalgamated with Rustons as Ruston & Hornsby. In the 1920s the company had its own orchestra in the town; the site was a diesel engine plant. During the Second World War, the company made tanks such as the Matilda at the Grantham factory. Ruston and Hornsby left in 1963 and most of the factory was taken over by a subsidiary, Alfred Wiseman Gears, which itself left in 1968.

Scale model of Hornsby 1910 steam caterpillar tractor

Former developments

In 1968 Reads of Liverpool built a canning factory in Springfield Road to serve Melton Mowbray, becoming American Can, then Pechiney (French) in 1988, then Impress (Dutch). It closed in 2006 and was demolished in 2007 to make way for a housing estate. Ransome & Marles Bearing had a ball bearing factory in the town until 1957, when production was moved to Newark.

Mowbray and Co Ltd, a brewery, was bought by J. W. Green of Luton. It was founded in September 1828 and became a public company in 1880. It closed in 1967.

Hotels

Conference and hospitality facilities in the Grantham area include the Olde Barn Hotel in Marston, the Q-Hotel group Belton Woods Hotel, the Urban Leisure Hotel and various golf clubs. Stoke Rochford Hall won the Les Routiers Wedding Venue of the Year in 2011.^[108] The Griffin Inn at Irnham won the 2012 Les Routiers B&B of the Year Award.^[109][110] The Eden House Hotel is a historic building built as a mansion in about 1850.

Angel and Royal

Main article: Angel and Royal

The sign of the Angel and Royal

The Angel and Royal in 1836

The Angel and Royal in the High Street is reputedly the oldest inn in England. The present façade was built about 600 years ago, but the site had already held an inn for 200 years before that, and its origins are older still, as a hostel for the Knights Templar. King John is reputed to have visited with his Royal Court in 1213. A visit by Richard III was the origin of the gold emblem angel holding the King's crown over the original archway. Other royal visitors include King Charles I, George IV and Edward VII, when Prince of Wales, leading to the inclusion of "Royal" in the inn's name.^[111]

Closures

Brook Street and Hill Avenue sub-post offices were closed in Grantham in 2008 as part of the Post Office Network Change programme. In August 2010 it was confirmed that the Grantham branch of Marks and Spencer would close, with two other Lincolnshire branches in Skegness and Scunthorpe, due to low sales, although a Marks and Spencer Food Hall re-opened in 2014. The closure met with local protests.^[112] Discount department store chain Boyes took over the property in 2012.^[113] Haldanes, a chain of about 20 supermarkets based in Ruston Road, went into administration. The former HMRC office at Crown House in Castlegate closed in early 2010, moving to two sites in Lincoln.^[114]

Ethnicity and religion

According to the 2011 census, Grantham's population^[115] was 96.3% white; 2.0% Asian or British Asian; 0.6% Black, African, Caribbean or Black British; and 0.9% mixed or mutli-ethnic; and 0.2% other. The population is therefore less ethnically diverse than England as a whole, which is 85.4% white; 7.8% Asian or Asian British; 3.5% Black, African, Caribbean or Black British; 2.3% mixed ethnicities; and 1% other. 90.1% of the town's population were born in the United Kingdom, compared with 86.2% nationally; 6.1% were born in European Union countries other than the UK and Ireland, of which almost three quarters (4.3% of the total) were born in post-2001 accession states; for England, the figures were 3.7% and 2.0% respectively. 3.4% of the population was born outside the EU, whereas the total for England was 9.4%.^[116][117]

In the 2011 census, 69.4% of Grantham's population said they were religious and 23.8% said they did not follow a religion, very similar to England as a whole (68.1% and 24.7% respectively). However, compared to England's population, Christians were a higher proportion of the Grantham population (67.6% compared with 59.4%), and all other groups were present at a lower proportion than the national rates. There were 20 Sikhs in Grantham, making up a negligible proportion of the population compared with 0.8% nationally; Hindus composed 0.5% (compared with 1.5% in England), Muslims 0.5% against 5% nationally, Jewish people 0.1% compared with 0.5% for all of England, and Buddhists 0.3% of the town's population, contrasting with 0.5% nationally.^[116][117]

Household composition, age, health and housing

In the 2011 census, 48.5% of the population were male and 51.5% female. Of the population over 16, 47.2% were married, compared to 46.6% in England; 31.1% were single (a smaller proportion than in England where it was 34.6%), 10.9% divorced (compared with 9% in England), 7.3% widowed (slightly higher than the 6.9% for all of England), 3.3% separated and 0.2% in same-sex civil partnerships (2.7% and 0.2% respectively in England). In 2011, there were 17,944 households in the Grantham urban area. It had a slightly lower than average proportion of one-person households (28.8% compared with England's figure of 30.2%); most other households consisted of one family, which was more common in Grantham than England as a whole (65.3% of the total, compared with 61.8% in England). This was because there were slightly higher than average rates of cohabiting couples (12% compared with 9.8%), lone parent households (11.2% against 10.6%) and married couples (34.2% compared with 33.2%), but fewer people in multiple and other household types (5.9% compared with 8%).^[116][117]

The 2011 census showed the average age of Grantham's population to be in line with the national average; the mean age was 39.3 and the median 39 years, compared with 39.3 and 39 for England. 24.8% of the population was under 20, versus 24% of England's, and 22.4% of Grantham's population was aged over 60, compared with 22% of England's population.^[116][117] In 2011, 80.7% of the population were in good or very good health, compared to 81.4% in England, and 5.4% in very bad or bad health, exactly the same rate as in England. 18% of people (9.3% in 16–64 year-olds) also reported having their day-to-day activities limited, compared with 17.6% in England (8.2% in 16–64 year-olds).^[116][117]

As of 2011, Grantham had similar proportions of people who owned their homes with or without a mortgage (62.2%) than in England (63.3%) and who rented socially (17.1% compared with 17.7% nationally); there was a slightly higher rate of private renting (18.8% compared with 16.8%) while owner-occupiers were more likely to be mortgaged than in England as a whole (55.7% of them, compared with 51.8%). The proportion of household spaces which are detached or semi-detached houses is higher than average (27.8% and 33.6%, compared with 22.3% and 30.7%), while the proportion of households living in apartments, flats and maisonettes is much lower (13.1% against 22.1%). The proportion of terraced household spaces is similar (25.4% compared with 24.5%).^[116][117]

Workforce

In 2011, 72.7% of Grantham's residents aged between 16 and 74 were economically active, compared with 69.9% for all of England. 65.6% were in employment, compared with 62.1% nationally. The proportion in full-time employment is also comparatively high, at 42.7% (against 38.6% for England). The proportion of retirees was in line with the national figure, at 13.9% compared with 13.7% for England, as was the proportion of long-term sick or disabled (3.9%, compared with England's 4%); 1.6% of people were long-term unemployed, compared with 1.7% in all of England. The 2011 census revealed that the most common industry residents worked in were: wholesale and retail trade and repair of motor vehicles (19.1%), manufacturing (13.9%), and human health and social work (12.9%). The latter category was in line with the national average, but retail and manufacturing were overrepresented compared with England (where the proportions were 15.9% and 8.8%, respectively). Most other industries were under-represented comparatively, with financial services (2.4% versus 4.4% nationally), information and communication (2.0% against 4.1% nationally), and professional, scientific and technical activities (3.9% compared with 6.7%) especially so.^[116][117]

Compared with the whole of England, the workforce had modestly higher proportions of people in elementary occupations (14.4% compared with 11.1%), process, plant and machinery operative roles (10.9% against 7.2%), skilled trades (12.8% versus 11.4%), and caring and other service occupations (10.5% against 9.3%). There was a much lower proportion of people in professional, associate professional, technical, administrative and secretarial occupations than in England as a whole (combined 32.6% versus 41.7% of England's population aged 16–74), principally driven by a lower proportion of full professionals (11.1% compared with 17.5%).^[116][117]

The proportion of residents aged 16 to 74 with no qualifications was 23.7%, only slightly higher than the national figure (22.5%); the proportion of residents whose highest qualification is at Level 1 or 2 (equivalent to GCSEs) is higher than in the national population, but 19.8% of Grantham's population have a qualification at Level 4 or above (Certificate of Higher Education upwards, including graduates), compared with 27.4% nationally.^[116][117]

Deprivation

The government's Indices of Multiple Deprivation (2019) show that Grantham contains both dense pockets of deprivation and areas of substantial affluence. The county council note that high levels of deprivation in parts of the town contrast with the less deprived rural hinterlands around it.^[118] A statistical area covering part of the Earlesfield estate falls within the most deprived 10% of areas in the country; it is the most deprived place in South Kesteven. Other parts of Earlesfield and the Cherry Orchard suburb fall within the most deprived 20% of areas nationally, while much of the central urban area also falls below the national median and the top five most deprived areas in the district are all parts of Grantham. However, the Green Hill and Spinney housing estates and parts of Gonerby Hill Foot and Manthorpe fall within the least deprived decile nationally; one of them is in the least 10 deprived places in South Kesteven.^[119]

Rail

Class 91 Electric locomotive at the station in May 2004, looking south

Bridge 66 on the Grantham Canal at Harlaxton

Spittlegate Millhouse, Grantham

Grantham railway station is served by the London–Edinburgh East Coast Main Line, between Peterborough and Newark Northgate). It is joined by the Nottingham to Skegness Line (Poacher Line). Liverpool–Norwich trains also call at Grantham. Electric trains began running in October 1988. Transport links to Nottingham and Peterborough attract some commuters. The town's grammar schools also attract pupils from Radcliffe on Trent, Bingham, Newark and even Retford via the train. Grantham is the best-served station in Lincolnshire, although after October 1970, most of Lincolnshire's branch lines were closed. Before October 1970 the connection from King's Cross to Lincoln Central was through Grantham and followed the A607 via Leadenham. After that date, London-Lincoln trains still passed through Grantham, but then continued up the main line to Newark Northgate, where the trains branched off to Lincoln St Marks Railway Station via a new curve just north of Newark.

In 1906 a rail accident killed 14 people.

On 3 July 1938 Mallard broke the world speed record for steam locomotives, at 126 mph (203 km/h), on the slight downward grade of Stoke Bank south of Grantham on the East Coast Main Line.

Road

The Great North Road was routed through the town in 1196. The turnpike to the north reached the town in 1725, that to Stamford in 1739, to Nottingham in 1758, and that to Melton in 1780.

The A1 main road from London to Edinburgh runs past the town, which was bypassed in 1962. The A52 linking Nottingham and the East Coast was diverted from High Street onto the Inner Relief Road, Sankt Augustin Way, in 1998. Wharf Road and London Road junction is still a busy junction on the A607 for Lincoln. Motorway-style Grantham North Services, at the north end of Grantham bypass, is on a new junction which replaced a roundabout in May 2008.^[120]

Grantham, with Stamford, had been earmarked for a bypass before the war in 1939. There were 60 serious accidents a year, with three to four deaths. After the war, on 21 November 1945, there was a meeting at the Guildhall about the proposed bypass of the London-Edinburgh-Thurso trunk road for Grantham and Great Gonerby. This was the first enquiry into a trunk road scheme in the country after the war. The proposed route followed the current line, from Little Ponton to College Farm, except it was to be a single carriageway road.

On 8 February 1960, it was announced that a bypass would be built, including the route south to the B6403 at Colsterworth. Robert McGregor and Sons Ltd of Manchester would build the road for £1,856,009. (The company went on to build Newark bypass in 1964.) The bridges were built by Simon Carves of Cheadle Hulme. It was formally opened on 10 October 1962 by James Heathcote-Drummond-Willoughby, 3rd Earl of Ancaster, then the Lord Lieutenant of Lincolnshire (from 1950 to 1975).^[121] He was married to the (only) daughter of Nancy Astor.

Various attempts at one-way systems in Grantham have been introduced, but traffic delays are still commonplace. Low railway bridges also add to traffic difficulties, with lorries becoming stuck under them. Many promises have been made by the local council for a Grantham bypass road. The latest, the Grantham Southern Relief Road, has been in planning since 2007. Phase one of the project was completed in 2016 which provided access to some commercial facilitates and a new roundabout on the B1174.^[122] Phase Two, started in October 2019, involves a new grade separated junction on the A1 and is due to be opened on 20 December 2022. Phase three for the main stretch of road started in 2021 and due to be completed by 2023. In July 2022 it was found that ground conditions at a new viaduct were for as expected, and the project would be delayed as the viaduct would need to be redesigned.^[123][124]

Waterways

Grantham was once linked to Nottingham by the Grantham Canal. It is possible to walk and cycle along the canal starting from Grantham near the A1/A607 intersection (opposite The Farrier).

The River Witham runs through Grantham. It has a riverside walk linking Dysart Park and Wyndham Park, on which is a view of Spittlegate Mill. The walk passes Inner Street allotment and the rear of Sainsbury's car park, access to which is by a pedestrian bridge at the end of College Street. There are other footbridges with views of the river and its weirs. Swans, ducks and trout are among the wildlife that can be seen along the river.

Amenities

Wyndham Park has two children's play areas. There is an open-air paddling pool, football pitch and cafe. Dysart Park has a paddling pool and safe play area for children under six, a green for football and a bandstand. Indoor amenities for children include a swimming pool at the Meres Leisure Centre.

The public library is located in the Sir Isaac Newton Centre. On St Peter's Hill in the centre of town stands Grantham Museum and the Guildhall Arts Centre, which includes a 210-seat theatre.^[146]

Belton House is a popular National Trust site with events for children, a play area, train rides, picnic area and woodland walk.^[147]

Nature

Saltersford Marsh

Grantham and its surrounding area host peregrine falcons, which have in recent years roosted in the bell tower of St Wulfram's Church.^[148] Grantham is surrounded by rolling countryside and woodland, such as nearby Ponton Park Wood, which has walks and views of woods and farmland. To the north-east there are the attractive gardens and the magnificent deer park of the National Trust's Belton House. Adjacent are Londonthorpe and Alma Park Woods, both owned by the Woodland Trust. The former comprises young woodland and open areas of wild flowers, while Alma Park has mature woodland on its steep limestone scarp and offers views over the town and the surrounding area.

To the south of the town, between Little Ponton and Saltersford, the River Witham flows through marshes and water meadows that support a variety of plant species, including vetches, cowslip, Primula veris, Lady's bedstraw Galium verum, and orchids, including the southern marsh orchid, and wildlife, including grey herons, mallards, greylag geese, water vole, and the now critically endangered white clawed crayfish. The area has notable populations of dragonflies, especially Aeshna grandis, Anax imperator, Libellula quadrimaculata and Calopteryx splendens, which are also found on Grantham Canal as it runs through The Vale of Belvoir to the west of the town. Wildlife can also be found in the town's Wyndham and Dysart Parks.

The Woodland Trust is based in Dysart Road and has been in Grantham since 1978; its new £6 million building,^[149] on the opposite side of the road, opened in November 2010. The building, designed by Atelier One and Max Fordham, has won several architectural awards.^[150]

Gingerbread biscuits

The town is known for gingerbread biscuits, first made in 1740 by a baker, William Eggleston. He produced a biscuit called Grantham Whetstones. Whetstones were a rusk-like dry biscuit enjoyed locally and by coach drivers who would stop in Grantham to change horses while travelling along the Great North Road. According to folk belief, Egglestone was baking whetstones in his dimly lit kitchen one morning when he mistook one ingredient for another, resulting in a ginger-like biscuit to emerge from the oven. The mistake was a huge success and the biscuit became established as Grantham Gingerbread, known as a white gingerbread, as it is not made with molasses or black treacle. This has a delicate ginger flavour, rich in butter, with a domed top and a crackled surface. The centre is hollow like a honeycomb.^[151]

Media

Grantham Radio Station, owned by NATS (En Route) Limited, for radio navigation for aircraft, and is situated in the north of Waltham near the Sproxton parish boundary

Grantham's local newspaper, the Grantham Journal,^[152] first went on sale in 1854 as The Grantham Journal of Useful, Instructive and Entertaining Knowledge and Monthly Advertiser. This was shortened to its current name a few years later. It was founded by Henry Escritt, a Yorkshireman by birth, who moved to the area in 1861. The 'Journal' is owned by Iliffe Media (formerly by Johnston Press), and has a sister newspaper in Melton Mowbray, the Melton Times. In the 1960s and earlier it produced the Melton Journal and Rutland Journal, both versions of the main paper. It also produces a Bingham edition.

David Wood CBE (1914–1990), former political editor of The Times (working under Sir William Haley), started out at the Grantham Journal.

There is a small FM radio transmitter near the town's bypass in Gorse Lane, from which BBC Lincolnshire and Lincs FM broadcast.

Local news and television programmes are provided by BBC East Midlands and BBC Yorkshire and Lincolnshire on BBC One, and by ITV Central and ITV Yorkshire on ITV1. Television signals are received from the either Waltham or Belmont TV transmitters.^[153][154]

Grantham also has a full-time community radio station, Gravity FM, which broadcasts from its own transmitter at The Maltings in Springfield Road and also online. Since redevelopment, the station has its own studios in Riverside Walk, on the western side of Grantham College. It is operated by local volunteers.^[155]

Football

Grantham Town Football Club, the local football team, currently plays in the Evo-Stik Northern Premier League. It was founded in 1874 and now uses the 7,500-capacity (covered 1,950, seats 750) South Kesteven Sports Stadium (although average attendances are well below that).^[156] The ground also doubles as the town's athletics stadium (one of only three in Lincolnshire), next to the Grantham Meres Leisure Centre on Trent Road.^[157]

Harrowby United F.C. in Dickens Road, near the Church of the Ascension, is in the UCL (United Countries League) Division One league.

Kesteven RFC pitch in April 2006

Grantham is also the birth place of Leeds United striker Patrick Bamford

Rugby Union

Kesteven Rugby Football Club was founded in 1947 and plays at Woodnook, off the B6403. It fields two men's teams, a ladies XV and many junior sides.

Hockey

Grantham Hockey Club, which fielded men's and women's team in league hockey, played at the Meres Leisure Centre, on an astro-turf pitch directly behind the football stadium.^[158] In 2011, the men ended a long spell in the Midlands League, moving to the East League, successfully earning promotion to Division 5 (North West). Their story is documented in 1,309 Days Later, the title a reference to a no-win spell between 2006 and 2009.^[159]

Bowls

Grantham bowls players have represented the indoor and outdoor clubs in county and national competitions. Indoor club players Martin Pulling, Dion Auckland, Ian Johnson, and former England U25 player Mathew Orrey, have played for the England squad.^[160][161]

Table tennis

In 1993 and 1994 international team matches were held in Grantham, at the South Kesteven Table Tennis Centre, which was opened in January 1992 by Johnny Leach. Grantham College have a Table Tennis Academy.^[162]

Armed forces and police

• Philip Knights, Baron Knights (1920–2014), police officer
• Walter Richard Parker VC (1881–1936), Royal Marine awarded the Victoria Cross at Gallipoli^[171]
• Edith Smith (1876–1924), first woman police officer with full arrest powers

Arts and entertainment

• Antonio Berardi (born 1968), fashion designer
• Judy Campbell (1916–2004), actor and playwright
• Syd Cain (1918–2011), film production designer
• Eric Chappell (born 1933), comedy writer
• Colley Cibber (1671–1757), actor, playwright and poet laureate, attended The King's School, Grantham.
• Dorothy Cowlin (1911–2010), novelist born in Grantham
• Johnny Haddon Downes (1920–2004), television producer
• Vince Eager (born 1940), singer
• Graham Fellows (born 1959), actor and musician^[172]
• Michael Garner (born 1954), actor
• Holly Humberstone (born 1999), singer and songwriter
• Henry Johnson (1806–1910), circus equestrian gymnast and acrobat
• Jessie Lipscomb (1861–1962), sculptor
• Spencer Matthews (born 1988), television personality and entrepreneur
• Nicholas Maw (1935–2009), composer
• Richard Nauyokas (born 1962), soldier and actor
• Nicholas Parsons (1923–2020), television and radio presenter
• Roy Petley (born 1951), Grantham-born plein air painter
• William Stukeley (1687–1765), antiquarian^[173][174]
• Richard Todd (1919–2009) actor
• Clare Tomlinson (born 1968), news presenter

Crime

• Beverley Allitt (born 1968), serial killer^{[175][176][177]}
• Julie Pacey (1955/1956–1994), victim of mysterious unsolved murder in the town in 1994. The killer, 'Overalls Man', may also be from the area or still lives there today^[178]

Politics and philosophy

• Mary Sophia Allen (1878–1964), suffragist, women's rights activist, and Nazi sympathizer
• Sir John Brownlow, 3rd Baronet (1659–1697), politician and landowner
• William Bury (c. 1605–1669), Commonwealth politician and army officer
• William Cecil, 1st Baron Burghley (1520–1598), statesman and Secretary of State, attended the King's School.
• Sir Clement Cotterell (died 1631), courtier and MP for Grantham
• Sir John Cust (1718–1770), MP for Grantham (1743–1770) and Speaker of the House of Commons
• Joseph Godber, Lord Godber (1914–1980), was Conservative MP for Grantham in 1951–1979 and held several government posts.
• Douglas Hogg, Lord Hailsham (born 1945), was a Conservative politician and minister, and MP for Grantham (1979–1997).
• Denis Kendall, MP for Grantham 1942–1950
• John Mordaunt (died c. 1505), MP for Grantham in 1491 and Speaker of the House of Commons
• Henry More (1614–1687), rationalist philosopher, attended The King's School.^[179]
• Thomas Paine (1737–1809), political writer and revolutionary
• Margot Parker (born 1943), UKIP MEP (2014–2019)
• Sir Arthur Priestley (1865–1933), Liberal MP for Grantham (1900–1918)
• Alderman Alfred Roberts (1892–1970), local politician
• Benjamin Selby (1985 - Present) Trade Unionist, Assistant General Secretary, Fire Brigades Union
• Nathaniel Ryder, 1st Baron Harrowby (1735–1803), politician
• Norman Shrapnel (1912–2004), political correspondent and author
• Margaret Thatcher (1925–2013), Conservative Prime Minister, daughter of Alfred Roberts
• Thomas Witham (c. 1420–1489), Chancellor of the Exchequer to Henry VI and Edward IV

Religion

Bishop John Still, effigy in Wells Cathedral

• Frederic Barker (1808–1882), Anglican Bishop of Sydney, attended The King's School.
• Tim Ellis (born 1953), Anglican suffragan Bishop of Grantham (2006–2013)
• Arthur Greaves (1873–1960), Anglican suffragan Bishop of Grantham and later Grimsby
• Gregory Hascard (died 1708), Anglican Dean of Windsor and religious writer
• Dennis Hawker (1921–2003), Anglican suffragan Bishop of Grantham (1972–1987)
• John Hine (1857–1934), Anglican bishop, successively of Nyasaland, Zanzibar, Northern Rhodesia and Grantham (1920–1930)
• Welbore MacCarthy (1840–1925), Anglican Archdeacon of Calcutta, and later inaugural suffragan Bishop of Grantham (1905–1920)
• Algernon Markham (1869–1949), Anglican suffragan Bishop of Grantham (1937–1949)
• James McCann (1897–1983), Anglican Archbishop of Armagh and Primate of All Ireland
• Anthony Otter (1896–1986), Anglican suffragan Bishop of Grantham (1949–1965)
• John Still (1593–1608), Bishop of Bath and Wells, once thought to have written an early farce, Gammer Gurton's Needle
• Doris Stokes (1920–1987), spiritualist and psychic medium
• William Wand (1885–1977), Anglican prelate, successively Archbishop of Brisbane, Bishop of Bath and Wells and Bishop of London

Science and engineering

Rivercourt Methodist Church, Hammersmith, London, designed by Charles Bell

• Charles Bell (1846–1899), architect
• William Clarke (1609–1682), apothecary and tutor to Isaac Newton
• Maxwell Hutchinson (born 1948), architect
• Isaac Newton, (1642–1726/27), physicist and mathematician
• Mark A. O'Neill (born 1959), biologist and computer scientist
• Thomas James Smith (1827–1896), pharmacist and founder of the medical equipment firm Smith & Nephew

Sports

• Shaun Balfe (born 1972), racing driver
• Patrick Bamford (born 1993), professional footballer with Leeds United and the England national football team^[180]
• Terry Bly (1935–2009), professional footballer, died in Grantham
• Ian Bowyer (born 1951), professional footballer
• Roderick Bradley (born 1983), American footballer
• John Broughton (1873–1952), first-class cricketer

Olympic gold medal winning tennis player Charles P. Dixon

• Charles P. Dixon (1873–1939), Olympic gold, silver and bronze medal-winning tennis player
• Mathew Dowman (born 1974), first-class cricketer
• Dave Gilbert (born 1963), professional footballer
• Arthur Green (1885 – post-1912), professional footballer
• Timothy Grubb (1954–2010), Olympic show jumper
• Cyril Hatton (1918–1987), professional footballer^[181]
• Richard Holmes (born 1980), professional footballer
• Richard Howitt (born 1977), first-class cricketer
• Vikki Hubbard (born 1989), international high jumper
• Dickie Joynes (1877–1949), professional footballer
• Alastair McCorquodale (1925–2009), Scottish athlete and first-class cricketer, died in Grantham.
• Harry Pringle (1900–1965), professional footballer, died in Grantham.
• Arnold Rylott (1839–1914), first-class cricketer
• David Storer (born 1968), former cricketer
• Simon Terry (1974–2021), Olympic Bronze medal-winning archer
• Tom Wells (born 1993), first-class cricketer
• William Woof (1858–1937), first-class cricketer
• Ashley Wright (born 1980), first-class cricketer
• Luke Wright (born 1985), first-class cricketer

Notes

Citations

Bibliography

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