Whirlpool WED87HED Dryer Drive Belt Replacement

Written By: Bill Gilbert
  • Comments: 2
Whirlpool WED87HED Dryer Drive Belt Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

41

Time Required

3 - 4 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the drive belt on your Whirlpool Duet WED87HED Dryer.

The drive belt is a critical component of your dryer, and the clothes will not tumble at all if it's broken. Clothes will also not tumble properly if it's slipping on its belt.

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    • Before you begin your repair, unplug your dryer.

    • Your power cord may have four prongs rather than three. The additional prong is a ground connection.

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    • Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.

    • Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove the two 15.7 mm-long screws securing the top panel to the rear panel bracket.

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    • Grasp the top and slide it 1/2 to 1 inch toward the rear of the machine.

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    • Lift the top panel upward to separate it from the chassis.

    • Remove the top panel from the machine.

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    • Disconnect the control panel cable from the main board.

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    • Disconnect the drum light connector.

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    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the two 16.3 mm‑long sheet metal screws located at each end of the control panel.

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    • Lift the control panel up and tilt it away from the chassis to remove it.

    • Make sure to thread the cable through the hole in the chassis.

    • During reassembly, thread the cable through its proper hole before reinstalling the control panel.

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    • Use a small flat blade screwdriver or a spudger to unlatch both sides of the door switch connector.

    • Unplug the connector.

    Could this use a locator shot to show where on the back of the control panel it's located?

    Austin Blakely -

    It isn't located on the control panel, it is near the side of the dryer cabinet, kind of tucked under the top rim of the cabinet. Thanks for the suggestion, and hope this helps to clarify.

    Bill Gilbert -

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    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the three upper front panel 16.4 mm-long sheet metal screws.

    • Tilt the machine backwards and prop it securely, or have a friend hold it.

    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the four sheet metal screws on the bottom edge of the panel:

    • Two 16.4 mm screws

    • Two 13 mm screws

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    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 15.8 mm‑long screws inside the door area below the drum opening.

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    • The panel is heavy and awkward. You may want to have a friend help you with this step.

    • Pull the bottom of the panel away from the chassis about two to three inches.

    • Lift the front panel off the small tabs on the chassis near the top of the panel and remove it.

    • Make sure you don't snag the door switch wire harness as you remove the panel.

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    • Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove the 16.2 mm-long cover plate screw.

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    • Remove the cover plate.

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    • Mark the cables with a permanent marker if needed and take a picture or draw a diagram.

    • Use a Phillips driver or a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the three 21.4 mm-long screws.

    • If your plug has 4 prongs, there will be a ground connection from the cord as well. Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove this connection.

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    • Pull the cord carefully down through the round hole.

    • Make sure you replace the connections correctly when you reassemble.

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    • Use a 5/16 inch hex driver to remove the 16.5 mm-long green ground screw.

    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 15.3 mm‑long cord terminal block screws.

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    • Move the cord terminal block behind the rear panel.

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    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the eleven rear panel screws.

    • Ten 20 mm-long screws

    • One 12.9 mm-long screw under the water inlet.

    • Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.

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    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the 16.4 mm-length screw holding the main board bracket to the chassis.

    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the two 20 mm-long screws from the top rear of the machine.

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    • Put on gloves before continuing, as the rear panel is sharp.

    • Lift the panel about 1/2 inch and tilt it to the rear to release it from the vent pipe.

    • Slide the panel off the vent pipe and remove it.

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    • During reassembly, perform the following:

    • Make sure that the vent pipe is fitted into the collar on the panel.

    • Make sure the tabs at the bottom are aligned to the bottom rim of the chassis.

    • Position the panel so its screw holes match with the chassis.

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    • Pull the lint filter up out of the lint filter slot to remove it.

    • These photos show the front panel in place, but the procedure is the same if the front panel is already removed.

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    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the 16.4 mm‑long mounting screws securing the lint filter housing.

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    • Pull the filter housing outward from the chassis and down to remove it.

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    • Squeeze the locking tabs on the moisture sensor connector.

    • Disconnect the connector.

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    • Label, photograph or make a sketch of the connector locations and of the main board bracket position on your machine.

    • Disconnect all of the connectors on the main board front half.

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    • Label, photograph or make a sketch of the connector locations and of the main board bracket position on your machine.

    • Disconnect all the connectors from the rear half of the main board.

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    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the 12.8 mm‑long sheet metal screw that retains the main board to the main board bracket.

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    • Lift the rear corner of the main board nearest to the side walls of the chassis.

    • You want to release the locking tab on the side of the main board.

    • Slide the main board toward the front of the dryer to release the tabs securing it to the main board bracket.

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    • Remove the main board from the main board bracket.

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    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to unfasten the 16.4 mm‑long sheet metal screw holding the main board bracket.

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    • Lift off the main board bracket from the chassis and turn it so the bottom is exposed.

    • Using long nose or slip joint pliers, pinch the locking wings of the harness retainer clamp.

    • Separate the harness from the main board bracket and remove the main board bracket.

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    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the two screws securing the upper front bulkhead to the front of the chassis.

    • One 16.4 mm-long sheet metal screw

    • One 19.8 mm-long sheet metal screw

    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the two 16.5 mm‑long sheet metal screws securing the top plastic portion to the upper front bulkhead.

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    • Remove the upper front bulkhead and set it aside.

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    • Take careful note of the belt path before proceeding.

    • Be very careful during this step! The idler arm is under spring tension and may pinch you, or it could damage the belt switch if the arm is allowed to snap down.

    • Push the idler arm (the metal upside-down "L") up to relieve the tension on the drive belt.

    • Remove the belt from the motor pulley.

    • Gently lower the idler arm until it rests parallel to the dryer floor.

    • During reassembly, refer to your notes or the belt path link to rethread the drive belt.

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    • Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the four screws securing the lower front bulkhead.

    • Two 16.1 mm-long sheet metal screws on the left side of the lower front bulkhead.

    • Two 13.2 mm-long sheet metal screws on the right side of the lower front bulkhead.

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    • While supporting the drum, lift the lower front bulkhead off of the hooks on the chassis.

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    • Lower the bulkhead about 2 inches to free the drum rollers tucked under the drum.

    • While supporting the drum, remove the lower front bulkhead.

    • During reassembly, tilt the bulkhead to the right to get the rollers under the lip on the front of the drum. Once the drum is on the rollers, you can move the bulkhead to the upright position.

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    • Use the belt to lift the drum a few inches.

    • Swing the drum out of the front of the dryer.

    • Note which end of the drum faces the front.

    • If the belt is broken, stand in front of the drum and put your arms inside it. Lift it up and pull it through the front opening of the machine. Having someone to help you with this is a good idea.

    • Make sure you get your drum back on the rollers when you reinstall the lower front bulkhead. Take your time and don't force it.

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    • Slip the belt off the drum.

    • Don't let the belt drag on the ground if you need to reinstall it as you might damage it.

    • During reassembly, make sure the smooth side of the belt is facing out and the grooved side of the belt is against the drum.

    • Pull the belt snug against the drum when reinstalling.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Bill Gilbert

Member since: 30/06/22

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