Whirlpool WED87HED Dryer Blower Wheel Replacement

Written By: Bill Gilbert

Comments: 2

Whirlpool WED87HED Dryer Blower Wheel Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

2 - 3 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the blower wheel on your Whirlpool Duet WED87HED dryer.

The blower wheel is a critical component that pulls the heated air through your dryer as it spins. It can be damaged by small pieces of laundry like socks or gloves that lodge in it and cause jams or breaks.

Tools

Step 1

Before you begin your repair, unplug your dryer.
Your power cord may have four prongs rather than three. The additional prong is a ground connection.

Step 2

Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.
Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove the two 15.7 mm-long screws securing the top panel to the rear panel bracket.

Step 3

Grasp the top and slide it 1/2 to 1 inch toward the rear of the machine.

Step 4

Lift the top panel upward to separate it from the chassis.
Remove the top panel from the machine.

Step 5

Disconnect the control panel cable from the main board.

Step 6

Disconnect the drum light connector.

Step 7

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the two 16.3 mm‑long sheet metal screws located at each end of the control panel.

Step 8

Lift the control panel up and tilt it away from the chassis to remove it.
Make sure to thread the cable through the hole in the chassis.
During reassembly, thread the cable through its proper hole before reinstalling the control panel.

Step 9

Use a small flat blade screwdriver or a spudger to unlatch both sides of the door switch connector.
Unplug the connector.

Could this use a locator shot to show where on the back of the control panel it's located?

Austin Blakely -

It isn't located on the control panel, it is near the side of the dryer cabinet, kind of tucked under the top rim of the cabinet. Thanks for the suggestion, and hope this helps to clarify.

Bill Gilbert -

Step 10

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the three upper front panel 16.4 mm-long sheet metal screws.
Tilt the machine backwards and prop it securely, or have a friend hold it.
Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the four sheet metal screws on the bottom edge of the panel:
Two 16.4 mm screws
Two 13 mm screws

Step 11

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 15.8 mm‑long screws inside the door area below the drum opening.

Step 12

The panel is heavy and awkward. You may want to have a friend help you with this step.
Pull the bottom of the panel away from the chassis about two to three inches.
Lift the front panel off the small tabs on the chassis near the top of the panel and remove it.
Make sure you don't snag the door switch wire harness as you remove the panel.

Step 13

Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove the 16.2 mm-long cover plate screw.

Step 14

Remove the cover plate.

Step 15

Mark the cables with a permanent marker if needed and take a picture or draw a diagram.
Use a Phillips driver or a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the three 21.4 mm-long screws.
If your plug has 4 prongs, there will be a ground connection from the cord as well. Use a 5/16 inch nut driver to remove this connection.

Step 16

Pull the cord carefully down through the round hole.
Make sure you replace the connections correctly when you reassemble.

Step 17

Use a 5/16 inch hex driver to remove the 16.5 mm-long green ground screw.
Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 15.3 mm‑long cord terminal block screws.

Step 18

Move the cord terminal block behind the rear panel.

Step 19

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the eleven rear panel screws.
Ten 20 mm-long screws
One 12.9 mm-long screw under the water inlet.
Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.

Step 20

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the 16.4 mm-length screw holding the main board bracket to the chassis.
Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the two 20 mm-long screws from the top rear of the machine.

Step 21

Put on gloves before continuing, as the rear panel is sharp.
Lift the panel about 1/2 inch and tilt it to the rear to release it from the vent pipe.
Slide the panel off the vent pipe and remove it.

Step 22

During reassembly, perform the following:
Make sure that the vent pipe is fitted into the collar on the panel.
Make sure the tabs at the bottom are aligned to the bottom rim of the chassis.
Position the panel so its screw holes match with the chassis.

Step 23

Pull the lint filter up out of the lint filter slot to remove it.
These photos show the front panel in place, but the procedure is the same if the front panel is already removed.

Step 24

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove the 16.4 mm‑long mounting screws securing the lint filter housing.

Step 25

Pull the filter housing outward from the chassis and down to remove it.

Step 26

Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to unfasten the 12.9 mm-long blower cover screw.

Step 27

Lift the blower cover slightly and slide it to free the tabs which hold it in place.
Remove the blower cover.
The photos show the lower front bulkhead in place. The bulkhead doesn't affect the blower cover removal and reassembly.

Step 28

Move to the rear of the machine to access the drive shaft.
Hold the drive shaft with an adjustable wrench, or a 1 inch wrench, on the hex portion of the drum drive pulley.
The threads on the blower wheel are left-hand threads. The wrench must be installed to the left of the pulley to keep it from rotating counterclockwise.

Step 29

Use a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench with a 5 or 6 inch extension bar and no socket to fit into the square hole on the blower wheel.
Turn the wheel clockwise (to the right) to free it enough to remove it by hand.