Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element Testing and Replacement

Written By: Bill Gilbert

Comments: 3

Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element Testing and Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

3 - 5 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to test heating element in your Whirlpool Dryer and replace it if necessary.

A faulty heating element can cause the dryer to overheat, heat poorly, or not heat at all.

This guide is rated Difficult, and while most of the steps are straightforward, the disassembly and reassembly of the heating element can be tricky in addition to the lower front bulkhead and the drum.

This guide will work for most electric Whirlpool dryers. This guide is written with a model WED87HED dryer. If you have a different model, you may encounter some minor disassembly differences, but the overall repair process will be the same.

Tools

Parts

Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Varies)

Step 1

Before you begin your repair, unplug your dryer.
Your power cord may have four prongs rather than three. The additional prong is a ground connection.

Step 2

Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.
Use a nut driver to remove the screws securing the top panel to the rear panel bracket.

Step 3

Grasp the top and slide it 1/2 to 1 inch toward the rear of the machine.

Step 4

Lift the top panel upward to separate it from the chassis.
Remove the top panel from the machine.

Step 5

Disconnect the control panel cable from the main board.

Step 6

Disconnect the drum light connector.

Step 7

Remove the screws securing the control panel.

Step 8

Lift the control panel up and tilt it away from the chassis to remove it.
Make sure to thread the cable through the hole in the chassis.
During reassembly, thread the cable through its proper hole before reinstalling the control panel.

Step 9

Use a small flat blade screwdriver or a spudger to unlatch both sides of the door switch connector.
Unplug the connector.

Step 10

Remove the upper front panel sheet metal screws.
Tilt the machine backwards and prop it securely, or have a friend hold it.
Remove the sheet metal screws on the bottom edge of the panel.

Step 11

Remove the screws inside the door area below the drum opening.

Step 12

The panel is heavy and awkward. You may want to have a friend help you with this step.
Pull the bottom of the panel away from the chassis about two to three inches.
Lift the front panel off the small tabs on the chassis near the top of the panel and remove it.
Make sure you don't snag the door switch wire harness as you remove the panel.

Step 13

Remove the cover plate screw.

Step 14

Remove the cover plate.

Step 15

Remove the screws securing the cord cables.
Mark the cables with a permanent marker if needed and take a picture or draw a diagram.

Step 16

Pull the cord carefully down through the round hole.
Make sure you replace the connections correctly when you reassemble.

Step 17

Remove the green ground screw.
Remove the cord terminal block screws.

Step 18

Move the cord terminal block behind the rear panel.

Step 19

Remove the rear panel screws.
Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.

Step 20

Remove the screw holding the main board bracket to the chassis.
Remove the screws from the top rear of the machine.

Step 21

Put on gloves before continuing, as the rear panel is sharp.
Lift the panel about 1/2 inch and tilt it to the rear to release it from the vent pipe.
Slide the panel off the vent pipe and remove it.

Step 22

During reassembly, perform the following:
Make sure that the vent pipe is fitted into the collar on the panel.
Make sure the tabs at the bottom are aligned to the bottom rim of the chassis.
Position the panel so its screw holes match with the chassis.

Step 23

Pull the lint filter up out of the lint filter slot to remove it.
These photos show the front panel in place, but the procedure is the same if the front panel is already removed.

Step 24

Remove the mounting screws securing the lint filter housing.

Step 25

Pull the filter housing outward from the chassis and down to remove it.

Step 26

Squeeze the locking tabs on the moisture sensor connector.
Disconnect the connector.

Step 27

Label, photograph or make a sketch of the connector locations and of the main board bracket position on your machine.
Disconnect all of the connectors on the main board front half.

Step 28

Label, photograph or make a sketch of the connector locations and of the main board bracket position on your machine.
Disconnect all the connectors from the rear half of the main board.

Step 29

Remove the sheet metal screw that retains the main board to the main board bracket.

Step 30

Lift the rear corner of the main board nearest to the side walls of the chassis.
You want to release the locking tab on the side of the main board.
Slide the main board toward the front of the dryer to release the tabs securing it to the main board bracket.

Step 31

Remove the main board from the main board bracket.

Step 32

Remove the sheet metal screw holding the main board bracket.

Step 33

Lift off the main board bracket from the chassis and turn it so the bottom is exposed.
Using long nose or slip joint pliers, pinch the locking wings of the harness retainer clamp.
Separate the harness from the main board bracket and remove the main board bracket.

Step 34

Remove the screws securing the upper front bulkhead to the front of the chassis.
Remove the sheet metal screws securing the top plastic portion to the upper front bulkhead.

Step 35

Remove the upper front bulkhead and set it aside.

Step 36

Take careful note of the belt path before proceeding.
Be careful during this procedure! The idler arm is under spring tension and may pinch you, or it could damage the belt switch if the arm is allowed to snap down.
Push the idler arm (the metal upside-down "L") up to relieve the tension on the drive belt.
Remove the belt from the motor pulley.
Gently lower the idler arm until it rests parallel to the dryer floor.
During reassembly, refer to your notes or the belt path link to rethread the drive belt.

Step 37

Remove the screws securing the lower front bulkhead.

Step 38

While supporting the drum, lift the lower front bulkhead off of the hooks on the chassis.

Step 39

Lower the bulkhead about 2 inches to free the drum rollers tucked under the drum.
While supporting the drum, remove the lower front bulkhead.
During reassembly, tilt the bulkhead to the right to get the rollers under the lip on the front of the drum. Once the drum is on the rollers, you can move the bulkhead to the upright position.

Step 40

Use the belt to lift the drum a few inches.
Swing the drum out of the front of the dryer.
Note which end of the drum faces the front.
If the belt is broken, stand in front of the drum and put your arms inside it. Lift it up and pull it through the front opening of the machine. Having someone to help you with this is a good idea.
Make sure you get your drum back on the rollers when you reinstall the lower front bulkhead. Take your time and don't force it.

Step 41

The next three steps show how to disconnect and test the heating element.

Step 42

Disconnect the spade connectors attached to the heating element.
Note the locations of the spade connectors.
Pull on the connectors and not the wires themselves.
If you are just replacing the heating element and don't need to test it, you can skip the next two steps.

Step 43

These steps will require a multimeter. If you aren't familiar with how to use one, here is a guide that will help you.
Many Whirlpool electric dryers have heating elements with two or even three sections. The resistance will vary according to the arrangement.
If the heating element has only two terminals, you will just check the resistance between those terminals.
The resistance should be about 10–13 Ω. If it is outside this range, the element should be replaced.
If there are three terminals (common on newer machines, and shown here), check the resistance between the middle common terminal and each of the element terminals.
The resistance should be about 20 ohms (Ω). If the resistance is less than 15 Ω, or greater than 25 Ω, you should replace the element.

Step 44

(For three terminal heaters only) Check the resistance between the top and bottom terminals.
The multimeter should read about 40–50 Ω.
(All types) Check resistance from the each terminal to the heater housing.
The multimeter should read OL or "—"
If the element has the correct values when tested, you can stop here. You don't have to replace the heating element. As a precaution, while everything is accessible, you may want to test the components located on the heater housing.
For the hi limit thermostat/inlet thermistor combined component follow this link.
For the thermal cutoff switch, follow this link

Step 45

The next four steps show how to disconnect and remove the hi-limit thermostat and inlet thermistor.
The hi-limit thermostat and inlet thermistor are housed in one unit. Some dryers may not have an inlet thermistor.

Step 46

Pull the spade connectors straight off to disconnect the hi-limit thermostat portion of the hi-limit thermostat/inlet thermistor unit.

Step 47

You can skip this step if your dryer has only a hi limit thermostat.
Free the inlet thermistor connector by lifting the black locking tab with a small flathead screwdriver or spudger.
The black locking tab is fragile, so only lift it a small amount to free the connector. Make sure to grasp the connector, not the wires when removing them.
Once freed, pull the connector straight out to disconnect the inlet thermistor.

Step 48

Remove the sheet metal screws securing the hi-limit thermostat/inlet thermistor unit.

Step 49

Remove the unit by pulling it straight out from the mounting hole.
Note the orientation with the thermistor connector to the rear of the machine for reassembly.

Step 50

The following three steps show how to remove the thermal cutoff switch.

Step 51

Pull the two thermal cutoff switch spade connectors straight out of their slots to disconnect them.
Make sure to grasp the connectors and not the wires when disconnecting.

Step 52

Remove the sheet metal screws securing the thermal cutoff switch.
Note the orientation of the part, as on some models the part fits properly only one way.

Step 53

Remove the thermal cutoff switch by lifting it off of the heater housing.

Step 54

Remove the sheet metal screws securing the heater housing cover.

Step 55

Put on gloves before continuing, as the heater housing cover is sharp.
Lift the front of the heater housing cover to release the tabs securing it to the inlet housing pipe.
Make sure to lift the end of the cover well up so that you can get this tab to come free. Also the tabs on the side of the housing can stick in the slots.
Remove the heater housing cover.
During reassembly, make sure all the tabs on the cover have gone all the way through the slots on the sides of the housing and on the heating element. It will snap into place when it is correct.

Step 56

Lift the heating element out of the slots in the lower part of the heater housing.
Remove the heating element.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Bill Gilbert

Member since: 30/06/22

34697 Reputation

3 comments

Hi have fitted new thermal cutout new stat and new element still not getting hot

Philip Atkinson -

Hi have replaced thermal cutout Thermostat and heating element everything works except heat

Philip Atkinson -

Is there no heat on any cycle? I would look at the connections on the main Board, also called the Cycle Control Unit. Unplug and replug all of them especially the ones with heavier gauge wire. Another issue may be the centrifugal switch on your motor. Given that the unit runs properly except for no heat, and you have replaced the heating element, I strongly suspect the centrifugal switch. The centrifugal switch is not easy to check since the best check is to run the machine. I would try to trace the wire from the common terminal of your element to the centrifugal switch on the motor. Then see if you can trace the wire from the centrifugal switch to the electrical supply cord. You may be able to operate the centrifugal switch with your fingers to see if the contacts c;lose properly.Check the switch for continuity when it is in the running mode

An outside possibility is that one side of a 2 pole circuit breaker has tripped. If the "right" one has tripped, the dryer will spin but not heat. Check your breaker.

Bill Gilbert -