Whirlpool Dryer Drum Roller Asembly Replacement

Written By: Bill Gilbert

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Whirlpool Dryer Drum Roller Asembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

3 - 4 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the drum roller assembly (drum rollers and roller shafts) on your Whirlpool dryer.

The drum rollers serve as the bearings for the drum so that it tumbles freely. When they wear out or fail, they will make a rumbling or squeaking noise. The noise will be fairly loud, as the drum roller shafts are strongly mounted to the chassis of the dryer.

The drum rollers are best replaced as a set. If one has worn out, there's a good chance that the others will follow since they all have bearings in them.

Check the drum roller shafts for wear when you are replacing each roller. If you see wear marks but cannot feel a groove with your fingernail or fingertip on the shaft, it's probably still serviceable. The shafts only require replacement if they're damaged.

This guide will work for most Whirlpool dryers. This guide is written with a model WED87HED dryer. If you have a different model, you may encounter some minor disassembly differences, but the overall repair process will be the same.

Tools

Step 1

Before you begin your repair, unplug your dryer.
Your power cord may have four prongs rather than three. The additional prong is a ground connection.

Step 2

Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.
Use a nut driver to remove the screws securing the top panel to the rear panel bracket.

Step 3

Grasp the top and slide it 1/2 to 1 inch toward the rear of the machine.

Step 4

Lift the top panel upward to separate it from the chassis.
Remove the top panel from the machine.

Step 5

Disconnect the control panel cable from the main board.

Step 6

Disconnect the drum light connector.

Step 7

Remove the screws securing the control panel.

Step 8

Lift the control panel up and tilt it away from the chassis to remove it.
Make sure to thread the cable through the hole in the chassis.
During reassembly, thread the cable through its proper hole before reinstalling the control panel.

Step 9

Use a small flat blade screwdriver or a spudger to unlatch both sides of the door switch connector.
Unplug the connector.

Step 10

Remove the upper front panel sheet metal screws.
Tilt the machine backwards and prop it securely, or have a friend hold it.
Remove the sheet metal screws on the bottom edge of the panel.

Step 11

Remove the screws inside the door area below the drum opening.

Step 12

The panel is heavy and awkward. You may want to have a friend help you with this step.
Pull the bottom of the panel away from the chassis about two to three inches.
Lift the front panel off the small tabs on the chassis near the top of the panel and remove it.
Make sure you don't snag the door switch wire harness as you remove the panel.

Step 13

Remove the cover plate screw.

Step 14

Remove the cover plate.

Step 15

Remove the screws securing the cord cables.
Mark the cables with a permanent marker if needed and take a picture or draw a diagram.

Step 16

Pull the cord carefully down through the round hole.
Make sure you replace the connections correctly when you reassemble.

Step 17

Remove the green ground screw.
Remove the cord terminal block screws.

Step 18

Move the cord terminal block behind the rear panel.

Step 19

Remove the rear panel screws.
Throughout this guide, keep track of each screw and reinstall it exactly where it came from.

Step 20

Remove the screw holding the main board bracket to the chassis.
Remove the screws from the top rear of the machine.

Step 21

Put on gloves before continuing, as the rear panel is sharp.
Lift the panel about 1/2 inch and tilt it to the rear to release it from the vent pipe.
Slide the panel off the vent pipe and remove it.

Step 22

During reassembly, perform the following:
Make sure that the vent pipe is fitted into the collar on the panel.
Make sure the tabs at the bottom are aligned to the bottom rim of the chassis.
Position the panel so its screw holes match with the chassis.

Step 23

Pull the lint filter up out of the lint filter slot to remove it.
These photos show the front panel in place, but the procedure is the same if the front panel is already removed.

Step 24

Remove the mounting screws securing the lint filter housing.

Step 25

Pull the filter housing outward from the chassis and down to remove it.

Step 26

Squeeze the locking tabs on the moisture sensor connector.
Disconnect the connector.

Step 27

Label, photograph or make a sketch of the connector locations and of the main board bracket position on your machine.
Disconnect all of the connectors on the main board front half.

Step 28

Label, photograph or make a sketch of the connector locations and of the main board bracket position on your machine.
Disconnect all the connectors from the rear half of the main board.

Step 29

Remove the sheet metal screw that retains the main board to the main board bracket.

Step 30

Lift the rear corner of the main board nearest to the side walls of the chassis.
You want to release the locking tab on the side of the main board.
Slide the main board toward the front of the dryer to release the tabs securing it to the main board bracket.

Step 31

Remove the main board from the main board bracket.

Step 32

Remove the sheet metal screw holding the main board bracket.

Step 33

Lift off the main board bracket from the chassis and turn it so the bottom is exposed.
Using long nose or slip joint pliers, pinch the locking wings of the harness retainer clamp.
Separate the harness from the main board bracket and remove the main board bracket.

Step 34

Remove the screws securing the upper front bulkhead to the front of the chassis.
Remove the sheet metal screws securing the top plastic portion to the upper front bulkhead.

Step 35

Remove the upper front bulkhead and set it aside.

Step 36

Take careful note of the belt path before proceeding.
Be careful during this procedure! The idler arm is under spring tension and may pinch you, or it could damage the belt switch if the arm is allowed to snap down.
Push the idler arm (the metal upside-down "L") up to relieve the tension on the drive belt.
Remove the belt from the motor pulley.
Gently lower the idler arm until it rests parallel to the dryer floor.
During reassembly, refer to your notes or the belt path link to rethread the drive belt.

Step 37

Remove the screws securing the lower front bulkhead.

Step 38

While supporting the drum, lift the lower front bulkhead off of the hooks on the chassis.

Step 39

Lower the bulkhead about 2 inches to free the drum rollers tucked under the drum.
While supporting the drum, remove the lower front bulkhead.
During reassembly, tilt the bulkhead to the right to get the rollers under the lip on the front of the drum. Once the drum is on the rollers, you can move the bulkhead to the upright position.

Step 40

Use the belt to lift the drum a few inches.
Swing the drum out of the front of the dryer.
Note which end of the drum faces the front.
If the belt is broken, stand in front of the drum and put your arms inside it. Lift it up and pull it through the front opening of the machine. Having someone to help you with this is a good idea.
Make sure you get your drum back on the rollers when you reinstall the lower front bulkhead. Take your time and don't force it.

Step 41

Use a pair of long nose pliers to remove the triangular plastic retainer clip.
Sometimes these can pop off and fly, so make sure you have a good firm grip on the clip.

Step 42

Slide the roller unit off the roller mounting shaft.
Repeat the last two steps for each drum support roller on the dryer.
If any of the shafts are damaged (you can see and feel a groove with your fingernail or fingertip), go to the next step.

Step 43

Use a box wrench or socket wrench to loosen the nut holding the shaft to the chassis.
A 1/2 inch drive impact driver with an impact socket may help loosen a rusted nut.
If the shaft is stuck, apply some penetrating oil to help loosen it.
If the shaft spins when you try to loosen the mounting nut, use locking pliers to secure the shaft.