Introduction

The support valve is heavily used, as it docks with each cup of coffee inlet pipe of the brewing group. During a revision, you can replace the seals and inspect or replace the internal components. You have to open the machine and remove the thermoblock. There are units from the Royal series in which the support valve is not mounted to the thermoblock. On those it is sufficient to replace only the valve.

These instructions may also help with other Saeco models and with coffee makers from Philips and Gaggia—they are all made by the same manufacturer and have a very similar design.

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    • Unplug!

    • Remove all attachments like water tank, brewing unit etc.

    • The pictures show a Royal Cappucino One Touch HD8930, but the opening procedure is similar to all models.

    Um „nur“ das Supportventil auszutauschen gibt es noch eine sehr viel einfachere Vorgehensweise. Dabei setzt man an das untere Ende des Supportventils einfach mit einem 7er Gabelschlüssel an und schraubt dieses raus. Bei einigen Modellen wie der Spidem Trevi Chiara gibt es zusätzlich eine Plastikfront um das Ventil, welche sich abhebeln lässt um noch besser an das Ventil zu kommen. Gleichzeitig kann man dann auch am oberen Ende einen 17er Ringschlüssel ansetzen.

    ChuckNorris -

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    • The coffeebean supply is fixed with two screws. Unscrew them and lift it off.

    • There is a black rubber lid under the bean hopper that you can easily lift off, leaving a large opening.

    • The adjuster of the grinder has to be solved. Mark the position or just take a picture. This type is fixed with a screw, others are only sticked together.

    I have a Saeco Royal SUP016R model. Just cleaned the brew unit and a 1cm rubber seal fell off and i have no idea where it came from. Now there is some leak on top of the brew unit and the coffee ratio is off. Can you please help?

    Jelim -

    To have an idea, I would need to see a picture. Use this guide: Adding images to an existing question

    VauWeh -

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    • There are two screws to be turned out.

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    • The screws are situated on the underneath of the cover. This type is held by four screws.

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    • Now the cover can be raised: first grip on left and right rear side and lift about 10 cm (4 in). Sometimes the cover jams a little bit.

    • Solve the hoses which lead to the water tank. Perhaps you have to pull out some contacts, (e.g. the yellow-green protection lead), don´t forget to put them on again later.

    • The cover can be drawn aslant towards the front, sliding it over the hot water pipe.

    • Most repairs can be done with the cover being laid up partially , it must not be completely removed.

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    • This is what the removed thermoblock looks like. This one was 14 years old and leaking in various places.

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    • A look into the open device. The thermoblock is hidden under a pile of cables and tubes.

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    • It's safer to number the cable connectors on the electronics. You probably just need to disconnect the slightly hidden # 14 connector on the two green cables at the very bottom and # 7 on the blue cable on the top.

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    • The thermoblock is attached to the wall behind the brew group with only two Phillips screws.

    • Remove the two Phillips screws circled in red.

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    • Take out the thermoblock and place it on the machine.

    • Hold on! The thermoblock is still connected to the machine by many cables and hoses. Don't attempt to completely remove it just yet!

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    • Pull the clamp on the hose to the steam valve off.

    • Pull the hose circled in orange out.

    • There are two seals at the end of the hose that stick to the hose. Exchange them during re-assembly.

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    • Remove the metal holder of the thermal fuse.

    • My thermal fuse holder is heavily rusted, this may or may not be the case for you.

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    • Pull first the clamp, and then the second pressure hose out of the thermoblock.

    • There are two seals at the end of the hose. They stay stuck either at the end of the hose or afterwards, so don't try to remove them. Exchange them during re-assembly.

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    • Disconnect the connector with the two gray cables from the thermal switch.

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    • The blue cable from the thermoblock leads to the connector on the electronics, which is marked with 7 here. This particular plug stuck a lot, so force was required to pull it out.

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    • The Allen screw, which holds the holder of the two thermocouples, was not easy to open...

    • This can also be a Phillips screw. It may vary which appears for you.

    • Therefore, the plug on the electronics with the two green cables was pulled out. The plug has the mark 14 and is at the very bottom of the electronics.

    • Disconnect the plug with the yellow-green grounding wire from the support valve.

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    • Thread the green and blue cables out.

    • The thermoblock is free. Lift it out of the machine.

    • To replace the thermoblock, the attached components must be removed from the old block and transferred to the new part.

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    • Remove the four Phillips screws securing the support valve.

    • Pay attention to the connection tab for the grounding cable and keep it safe since it will be needed again.

    • Lift the unit with the support valve out of the thermoblock

    • The unit is sealed with an O-ring in the thermoblock. Clean the sealing surfaces before re-assembly and insert a new seal.

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    • Unscrew the valve out of the unit with a 13mm open end wrench.

    • Check if everything moves smoothly. Clean all parts well. Careful, they are sensitive.

    • The valve spring

    • The valve stamp. Check if the gasket on the valve seat is still good. Change it if necessary.

    • The sliding piece

    • Support seal on the thermoblock. Medium size.

    • Support gasket top. The largest of the three.

    • Support gasket bottom. The smallest.

Conclusion

Repeat the steps in reverse order to reassemble your device.

VauWeh

Member since: 19/10/15

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