Repairing Samsung SyncMaster SA300 Flicker and Vertical Lines

Place the monitor face-down on a mat, soft clean microfiber cloth, or even a dry towel, with the stand (bottom) facing toward you.

Remove the stand by firmly pulling on the small, cylindrical portion while applying pressure on the swiveling mount.

Work your way around the edge of the monitor using a plastic spudger, guitar pick, or smooth metal spudger. There's a large metal casing around the display, giving you some room for error as you work the plastic clips around it.

detach the small cables by pulling on the connectors and wiggling them off with spudgers, then remove the ZIF ribbon by flipping the "back" of the connector's black flipper upward.

Remove the display and single PCB from the front mount by pulling up, then forward, clearing the small metal clip at the bottom of the display.

Place the display face-down on a flat, heat-resistant surface. Ideally this is soft enough not to damage the fragile front of the display, and doesn't conduct heat like metal would. I used a thin fabric mat.

Fully remove the plastic shielding over the PCB by pulling up on the thick plastic with a spudger or your fingernails, taking care not to damage the aluminum tape. The black tape at the top will most likely have to be cut or pulled away, making it useless. Put aside.

Lightly stick aluminum tape or "Kapton" tape, either on it's own or with attached aluminum foil, to shield all components but the long set of contacts at the top of the PCB, and the flex cables attached to them.

Hold a heatgun at one centimeter from one of the flexible ribbons, using your non-dominant hand, moving slightly to cover the whole thing, or staying still if using a flat nozzle. Set to 300 ° C and fire for one minute.

Turn off and move the heat gun away, then using your dominant hand, firmly press a plastic spudger or guitar pick against the ribbon cable, running it from one direction to another, at least twice.

Repeat process with all ribbon cables.

If you used a conductive material like Aluminum to shield the PCB, remove it. Temporarily shield it with non-conductive tape, for example, lightly apply scotch tape to it, to prevent a shortcircuit.

Re-place the front of the bezel, the connector and logic board assembly, and keep them stuck to the monitor using tape. Re-connect all internal cables, then connect a working display output and a power cable.

Turn on the monitor, propping it against something solid, or having someone hold it in position. Run tests, for example a full-screen video or a full-screen "stuck pixel fixer"

If the problem reappears, re-apply insulation to the top PCB and repeat step 3.

If the problem does not reappear, remove the tape, re-apply the thick plastic shield using scotch or kapton tape in place of the black tape, and re-assemble the bezel.