Introduction
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Wrap a piece of masking tape around your thumb, sticky side out.
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Turn the wind lever cap clockwise to remove (it is reverse threaded).
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Remove the wind lever lock ring (it is also reverse threaded).
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Remove the brass spring washer.
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Place a tool in the fork of the rewind spindle.
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Unscrew the rewind lever.
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Remove the lock ring with a spanner.
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Lift off the ISO/Exposure Compensation dial.
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Ensure that the ISO dial couples with the tab on the resistor.
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Turn the Exposure Compensation to 1/4x then back to 4x while gently pushing down. This will help the dial engage with the detent mechanism properly.
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Lift off the top cover. The silver trim piece is loose and may fall away.
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Remove loose washer.
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The shutter pin is loose. Make sure it is in place before installing the top cover.
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The mode dial pin must be properly coupled with the mechanisms in the camera for it to work.
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Set the mode dial to 'M'. Place the top cover on the camera. Move the mode dial to 'B' then back to 'M' while gently pushing down.
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The mode dial should click into place and work properly.
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Use a spanner or tweezers to remove remove self-timer screw. It is reverse threaded.
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Remove self-timer lever.
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Remove black spacer.
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Remove spring washer.
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Remove two 3.0 mm #00 screws.
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Remove one 2.1 mm #00 screw.
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Remove loose plastic cover for motor drive pins.
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Unsolder two yellow wires.
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Remove one 3.0 mm #00 screw.
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Remove one 5.9 mm flat head screw.
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Lift off ISO resistor.
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Unsolder the red and blue wires (positive battery). They may share a pad.
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Unsolder one gray wire.
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Unsolder one white wire.
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Unsolder one brown wire.
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Unsolder one metal contact.
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Unsolder one pink wire.
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Apply isopropyl alcohol to soften the leatherette adhesive.
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Use a dull scraper to left the edge of the covering.
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Peel the leatherette away and remove it from both sides of the camera front.
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Remove two 3.4 mm #00 screws.
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Remove flex PCB retainer.
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Remove shim washers. Note the location (left or right) and install in the same positions during reassembly.
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Temporarily replace the advance lever and cock the shutter.
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Gently lift the front block away from the camera body. Move slowly and look for wire snags.
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Cock the shutter on the camera body. The mirror box should be uncharged before installation.
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Twist the three motor drive wires together to easily insert them through the bottom of the camera.
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Carefully track wire routing during installation. Make sure nothing is getting pinched and that all wires are accessible for resoldering.
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Once the front block is in place, check the mechanical speeds of the shutter before completing the reassembly. The mirror and shutter should function normally.
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Remove one 3.4 mm #00 screw.
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Gently work the LED strip out of the slot in the mirror box until it hangs free.
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The old dust/light seal foam will probably fall apart when the LEDs are removed. It should be replaced with new foam strips during reassembly (1.5 mm open cell foam with adhesive backing).
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Unsolder one gray wire (flash sync).
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Remove two 3.4 mm #00 screws.
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Slide eye piece out of its metal frame. It is still attached to the main flex PCB.
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The PCB is attached to the prism with double sided tape.
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Use isopropyl alcohol to loosen the adhesive and gently work the PCB free from the prism. Work slowly.
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Pull the PCB out of the slot connector at the base of the mirror box.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. A camera with a new main PCB will require calibration for accurate light meter readings.
In my experience it's hard to use a masking tape to unscrew the wind lever. I'd recommend a camera lens friction like this: https://www.amazon.com/Japan-Vacuum-Came...
Sergi -
Yeah, those tools are great. But I try to recommend solutions with non- specialized tools whenever possible. The only issue I've had with masking tape is that it can rip if the cover is very tight. Doubling up the wrap helps.
Sam Gustafson -