Jawbone Big Jambox Micro USB Port Replacement

Written By: Gabriella Graham

Comments: 21

Jawbone Big Jambox Micro USB Port Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

20 - 30 minutes

Introduction

If you are having trouble either connecting your Jambox via the Micro USB port or your Micro USB port has become damaged at some point, then this guide will walk you through the step-by-step process to replace it. The Micro USB port is connected with the auxiliary board, which will need to be replaced as well. This guide requires minimal soldering.

Tools

Step 1

Remove both end caps by putting a plastic opening tool in the center of the seam. Work around the edges to pry the end caps off completely.
Due to interior clips holding the end caps in place, use caution when applying force.

Can someone show the clips please in a photo?

kenneth keen - 17/02/20

Step 2

Turn the Jambox upside down. Peel the indicated rubber tabs off, using a plastic opening tool if necessary.
You may want to only take the tabs half way off to avoid re-gluing when reassembling.
Remove the three T6, 7.0 mm screws under each rubber tab.
Because the screws are a different length, set the screws aside.

I used rubber cement to reattach the pads. That will hold them in place and be easily removable in future.

David Robinson - 26/08/20

Can someone show a picture of the screws…and where they screw not…even just for form’s sake?

Thousand Sunny - 10/08/24

Step 3

With the Jawbone logo facing towards you and with correct orientation, place the Jambox with the left end cap facing upward.
Unscrew indicated T6 9.7 mm screws.
Gently loosen the tabs from their anchor points so the bottom may be removed.
Flip the Jambox so the other end cap is facing up. The USB cable is on this side (metal grounding clip, indicated in orange). Repeat the above two steps.

Make sure you pay close attention when removing the screw marked with a red circle that is in the left most position, as there’s a small grounding plate that will be completely unrestrained and free to get nice and lost only to be found later leaving you not knowing what the hell it is or where it came from should you not secure it before removing the panel that that screw secures. That grounding plate is crucial for the safety of yourself and your speaker, because it bridges the USB-micro power input jack to the metal frame. That means that should you lose it and put the speaker back together without it, your speaker will not be able to ground out and should there occur any surge during your charge cycle, like during a freak lightning storm, or whatever, your speaker won’t able to discharge that surge, which will no doubt fry your speaker, and likely kill whomever poor bastard happens to grab the speaker, say to turn it off during said storm as a safety precaution. SAFETY FIRST!

Thousand Sunny -

Btw, the screw I mentioned is shown in the third picture, since that small detail might have some play over success or failure in finding it…lol. Whoops.

Thousand Sunny -

Step 4

Pry up the bottom panel by lifting from the device.
Pull the bottom up. This may take a bit of force as the bottom is glued to device.
Once removed, the battery will now be visible.

No glue on mine. Only two clips on each side (that you can see clearly in step 3 picture).

Do not use force or you will break those clips.

Jay - 05/06/17

@jemdem (I assume this is the “Jay” involved) after looking at the pictures 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, I still don’t see what I would normally expect a “clip” to look like. Maybe the corners act as clips? If not, I can’t ‘clearly’ determine them, but it’s a fairly busy looking area with lots of recesses and all, so maybe they’re just blending in well?

Thousand Sunny -

There’s a plug on each foot in one of the corners that isn’t meant to be removed. The left one and the right one (when viewed so the writing appears correct way up), both have three pins and one plug, with the pins occupying three of the four corners (northeast, northwest etc.) and the plug occupying the remaining fourth corner. The left foot has pins in the upper right, upper left and lower left, and the plug which is part of the foot and plugs into the frame, is in the lower right corner, while the right foot is opposite, having pins in upper left, upper right and lower right, and the plug in the lower right. If that was too many ‘left’s and ‘right’s to follow along with, then just remember that the plug is on the lower-inside corner on each. The screw is in the center of each foot. If you pull too hard, or attempt to guide your pick/spudger all the way around when separating the foot, you could slice it right off, though adhesive will be needed for reapplying so severing isn’t the end of the world.

Thousand Sunny -

…continuing, the last foot needing removed is the upper center, when viewed so the writing on the feet is correct way up. And the plug on that foot is in the upper position, so only separate the bottom and both sides to access the screw in the center.

Thousand Sunny -

After continuing with the side pieces, the ‘clips’ that were holding the end pieces on were indeed at the corners and are NOT visible, clearly or otherwise. In fact only the ‘well’ or socket that each of the clips insert into are clearly shown, however the clips themselves are on the end caps, not the main body. If the speaker you are working on appears to have been dropped before and the corners are at all crumpled inward, take extra care to try and straighten them back to original shape before attempting to unclog the caps because not doing so could result in the clips breaking off. This may sound difficult, but I managed to straighten out all eight corners of the one I’m working on with no issues using a pair of needle nose pliers that are toothless so as to not introduce any bite patterns to the grill.

Thousand Sunny -

Step 5

Before unscrewing, take a picture of the top view. That way, when you're reassembling the device, you'll know the orientation of the metal grounding plates.
Unscrew the eight indicated T6 9.8 mm screws. Remove metal grounding plates.

If you took the bottom off without noticing the orientation or taking a picture, worry not, my child. The speaker has a “jawbone” name plate on the front of it, but not the back that you can see in the above picture in the lower section of the face which is facing us in that picture. When you have the speaker oriented so the bottom is up, and the name plate is at the top, the words on the rubber feet should also face right side up when replacing the bottom panel. Though if you’re paying close enough attention, the bottom panel only correctly attaches one way and can’t correctly attach the other way around.

Thousand Sunny -

Step 6

Once all eight screws are removed, pry the sides of the Jambox to lift the body from it's shell.

Step 7

With the battery facing forward, remove the three indicated T6 9.5 mm screws.
Once the screws are removed, lift up the small plastic plate, revealing the auxiliary board underneath.

Step 8

Turn the Jambox so that the button panel is visible.
Remove the indicated screws, T6 9.6 mm.
There is a small plastic flap obscuring the view of one of the screws, indicated in orange. In order to unscrew it, simply lift the flap out of the way.

Step 9

Pop off the button panel.

Step 10

Remove the colored ribbon that connects the green button circuit board to the blue auxiliary board by using your finger to lift the small black tabs that clamp down the ribbon.

Thesmallblacktabsshouldnotbelifted.Theywillbebrokenbyliftingthem.Insteadyoushouldslidetheminthedirectionoftheribbon-paralleltotheboard.Theybreakeasilyandleaveyourdeviceworthlessifnotinstalledproperly.Nowmyspacekeynolongerworks.

kenneth keen - 20/02/20

This destroyed my fix. DO NOT TRY TO LIFT THE PLASTIC TABS!!! Despite what the instruction says it is impossible to do and will break with the slightest pressure upwards. I should’ve read the comment before from another user to slide the tabs OUT in the direction of the ribbon. I’ll keep going thru the steps to finish but this might prove worthless now.

IFIXIT needs to edit this!

Ivan Michel - 21/12/22

Step 11

Remove the indicated T6 7.4 mm screw holding the auxiliary board in place.
Carefully lift the auxiliary board up and off to the side.

Step 12

With the auxiliary board removed, use a soldering iron to heat the metal attaching the Micro USB port (indicated on the image).
Remove the Micro USB port.
Exercise caution when handling the soldering iron due to extreme heat.

will this board also work with the classic jawbone?

Kevin Kramer - 10/04/17

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Gabriella Graham

Member since: 02/04/15

1166 Reputation

7 comments

Hi, great guide. My jambox has a broken headphone input. Where can I buy one to solder in. Or can I buy an entire new aux board?

conrad lucero - 03/08/15

I'm also looking for a new headphone input. Where do I find one?

C Dare - 22/10/15

You guys keep failing to mention where to get replacement parts. Any ideas??

Dave Bornack - 22/09/15

Where do I purchase the replacement auxiliary port?

Patrick egan - 02/10/16

Where do I purchase the replacement auxiliary port

Patrick egan - 02/10/16

Exactly the the part is missing..where do i get another?

Ijeoma Iheukwumere - 26/10/16

So... does this mean I am supposed to solder the port back on? Is it attaching to the board? What is holding it on? The video shows using a paste, what is the best way to reattach it?

Erin Decker - 21/05/17