Introduction

I have a X100S camera, which is completely dead , and a X100 with a bad working iris; iris was moving, but sometimes reamained fully open, and most of the times was fully closed (no autofocus, very dark pictures).

I did not want to tear down the camera from the back, so I decided to try from the front, starting with the dead X100S, as a “safe” trial.

Later I did the same on the X100, and noticed that the lens is the same, also inside.

When I reached the iris, I realized that the motor was not moving correctly, closing the iris a bit more at each shutter actuation. I then decided to remove the iris gear, and fix the iris at around f:4, which is for me a good compromise. DOF is acceptable on this lens, and AF works well.

You can try to do the same if you have a bad working iris, or you can use this guide to clean the lens inside, or change the lens front element, if damaged.

I hope you can find this guide useful.

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    • Place the camera with lens up on a flat surface , without lens cap. Switch it off, but you can leave the battery inside, it may help later.

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    • Carefully insert the tip of a small flat screwdriver in the middle of the 6 grooves, as shown in the picture. Turn it a bit, you will feel the adhesive inside , loosing its grip. Move the tip along the whole gap until the ring will be free. Remove the ring. The cap has a notch on the top, so that it can be mounted in only one position.

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    • Remove the adhesive ring shown in the picture, if present. I found it in the X100S, but not in the X100.

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    • The front lens element is mounted on a bayonet plastic ring. Turn it counterclockwise (it requires some strength, it has some glue inside) and then you can remove it. You can then clean it, if needed. 1st picture is with ring locked, 2nd picture is with ring released.

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    • You now see the first cover plate, locked with 4 screws. Here you can act on 2 pins, with a small screwdriver. The left one moves the ND filter. The right one moves the lens curtains.

    • Remove the 4 screws, and then remove carefully the plastic plate.

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    • The ND filter and the 2nd ring are made by very thin shims. I used small tweezers and a lot of care, to remove them. As first the ND filter, then the big shim, of course. They can be mounted in only one position, so don't worry, just look at the pictures.

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    • You can see the lens curtain blades . Remove them and then the 3rd shim plate. In the 3d picture you can see the blades (in mounting order; the blade on the top has to be mounted first) and the 3rd shim plate , disassembled.

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    • You have now reached the iris assembly. The blades are fixed in position, they do not jump out easily, but be careful when touching them. Look at the 3rd picture, on the top you can see the irs gears. The metal gear is moved by the motor, and it moves a second small plastic gear , and this one moves the iris plastic ring.

    • You can check if the blades are sticky, and if the gears are damaged. You can switch on the camera, and push the shutter button , you will see the blades moving and check if all is ok (don't touch them while moving, they are very thin).

    • If you fully open the iris, you can clean the lens, if needed, without removing the iris.

    Do you have any leads on where to buy the small 2:1 step up gear that move the aperture? I disassembled mine due to intermittent aperture problems and found it missing 2 teeth. Thanks.

    Ben House -

    I cannot find any seller on Ebay or Internet, but I still have the gear I took off ! I can sell it. Are you on Ebay ?

    Roberto Toso -

    I am on eBay. I live in Thailand currently but sending a small padded envelope over front the states is quite simple.

    Ben House -

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    • If you want to lock the iris at a fixed F-value (as I did), you don't need to remove the iris ring.

    • Take out the blade over the gear from its pin, turn it to have space and then you can remove the small plastic gear with small tweezers . Put back the blade on its pin.

    • I suggest to lock the iris ring with some small pieces of adhesive tape. You can see 3 of them in the 1st picture.

    • I decided to set the iris at around f:4. The fully open iris (f:2) has a diameter of around 13.5mm, so I closed it to 6.7 mm to get f:4 (I used a digital caliper to measure it) and then I locked the ring with some tape. In the 2nd picture you can see the final result.

    • If you don't need to remove the iris ring, you can stop here , go back and reassemble all parts. If you want or need to remove the iris ring, go further.

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    • If you want to remove the iris ring, you need a lot of care and patience. You have to take out the 9 (!) iris blades from the pins , and turn them as shown in the 1st picture. They stay attached to the ring, but you have to move them very carefully.

    • The ring can come out only if turned fully in one direction, until it stops, then it can come out. I think it has to be turned counterclockwise, but I am not 100% sure. Try both, in case.

    • When you will mount the iris back, you have to insert the blades on the pin. The blades will mix one on eachother, and you wll need several trials to find the correct positins of the blades. Look at pictures in Step 8 to see whch is the final result that you have to get. This step was quite tricky for me, a lot of care and patience is needed.

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    • You can now see the 2 gears, and the bottom of the iris seat. I see no way to go further from this side, and I have stopped here. The inner lens is fully visible and can be cleaned easily.

    • If you decide to lock the iris in a fixed position, you have to remove the plastic gear, so that the motor will not move the iris anymore. See Step 9.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Roberto Toso

Member since: 29/08/20

293 Reputation

13 comments

Super helpful, thank you!

Rizki Hadiaturrasyid -

Thanks a lot for this. Very interesting, but too advanced for me..

I have a question about the OVF/EVF lever on the front of my x100T. It has become loose on my camera, in the sense that the top of the lever can be moved ca 3mm out from the body. Is it possible to take off the circular plate on the lever and tighten some screw behind there. Or some other way too make the lever again only move firmly along the body and not out from it? Thanks in advance to anyone answering!

Eirik Mikkelsen -

Hello, thank you for looking.

I have not removed this lever, but look at this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVvJ_uAM...

at time 9:31, you see that he unscrews a little screw in the middle of the lever. The "cap" in front of it is missing (also at the beginning of the video), so I think it's just glued in, maybe with adhesive tape. Try to lift up the cap with a small blade, or a small flat screwdriver, I think it will come out, then you will reach the screw. Let me know if it works. Good luck !

Roberto Toso -

Thank you so much for this! I manage to fix the sticky aperture blades on my Fuji X100 by following your tutorial. Symptoms were randomly overexposed pictures. The aperture blades were moving, but never in the same amount.

Upon inspection, while I was inside the lens, I saw that the gear mechanism moving the blades seemed to be partially stuck, preventing the aperture blades from closing properly. What I did is I took a very small pointy blade and turned the (very) small gears that engage the aperture blades to manually open and close the aperture on all it's range. That seemed to do the trick and they move freely since then.

Étienne Poulin -

Thank you so much for explaining how it went for you. I'm about to try the procedure for my sticky-aperture X100 as well, and it's great to know that there's a possibility I won't need to take each blade out and clean.

Austin -

If anyone is going to remove the small gear to lock your aperture, I will happily buy it from you. Mine broke a tooth and I need a replacement.

Ben House -

Hi Ben, I have the gear I took off my camera, I can sell it. Let me know.

Roberto Toso -

Yes I’m interested. Shoot me an email. Benniku@gmail.com

Thanks!

Ben House -

Hi Ben, I have sent an email a few days ago, have you received it ?

Roberto Toso -

Hello Ben,

have you received my email from 29/10 ? Are you intersted tobuy the gear ? Let me know, another person asked me for it.

Kind regards.

Roberto Toso -

If someone else has the small gear available, I would love to buy it! An online source, where one can find gears that small, would also be appreciated! Mine is a little broken and the aperture works fine other than that...

Julez -

Hello Julez, I have one gear for sale, please give me your email address to go further.

Roberto Toso -

Thanks for this! I was also able to repair my x100's sticky blade issue. I was also referring to this (terrifying) video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hseFEOf...), but did NOT remove the aperture blades, just actioned the gear as in the comment above, and applied a tiny bit of IPA to the gear. Reassembly is fiddly but ok as long as you can be careful and patient :)

asa dok -