Introduction
This guide will walk you through the following steps:
- Removing the bottom of the kettle
- Locating and identify the internal components
- Disconnecting the wiring from the internal components
- Removing the kettle power supply
Reassembly is as simple as reversing the steps!
Tools
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Using your hands, pry the base off the kettle.
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Open the kettle like a clamshell; the ON/OFF switch will be the hinge point.
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A: The power supply.
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B: The two boil-dry protection switches, one on either side of the central black ring.
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C: The power coupling. This fits into the baseplate when you place the kettle on it.
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D: The thermostat. This is a little metal ring, half hidden by the switch cover.
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E: The manual ON/OFF switch.
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F: The indicator light.
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G: The steam chamber. This heats the thermostat, which turns off the kettle automatically.
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Remove the connectors (spaded lugs) from the circuit components as shown in the second image.
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You should be able to remove each connector easily by hand. Pinch the lug between your fingers and pull in the direction of the attached wire.
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If necessary, use needle-nose pliers to grasp the lug shank firmly. Gently pull the lug in the direction of the attached wire.
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Gently bend the disconnected wires back and out of the work area.
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Using your hands, grasp the wire that is still connected to the power supply. Carefully lift the power supply off the threaded stud to which it was coupled.
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Five (5) screws.
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The kettle base.
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One (1) 7/32'' hex nut.
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One (1) 7/32" split-ring lock washer.
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One (1) power supply unit.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
2 comments
I had a Kettle like this. A little different internally. One of the problems was the center power pin had got so hot it had melted the plastic. Cant really fix that. So it hit the recycle can. Will not buy this type again.
ksiair -
The photographs and schematic were very helpful, but the problem was not with the Power Supply; the on-off switch lit up. I needed to remove the two other nuts at the yellow arrows and look more closely at the Boil Dry Protection Switches. I removed and replaced the metal plates and noticed that two white plastic pieces swung out into the space around the Power Coupling. Had I reset something? Regardless, after reconnecting wires and reattaching nuts and screws, the pot is back to working order. Thank you so much for posting this Fix It!