Introduction
This guide should be followed in order to access all the components underneath the keys. This includes the backlighting LEDs and the switches underneath the keys. The beginning steps for replacing both components are the same. Therefore the only difference between replacing these components will be the last two steps. Step nine will be used to replace the LEDs while step ten will be used to access the switches either for replacement or adding the aftermarket silencers to the keys.
Tools
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There are two tabs on both sides of where the cable enters the back of the keyboard. Use the metal spudgers to gently pull up the tabs. These are circled in red on the picture.
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Use the plastic opening tool to remove the rubber pads at each corner.
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Once removed, there are 10mm screws below each pad. Remove the screws using the phillips-head screwdriver.
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Utilizing your broad metal spudger, begin to pry off the faceplate of the keyboard.
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There are small tabs between the faceplate and the keyboard's base that must be released. There are four tabs along the front of the keyboard and two along each side. Examples of the tabs you are looking for are circled in the third image.
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Find where the cable enters the back of the keyboard. There are two screws on either side of the tab holding the cable in. Once removed, the tab should slide out of the keyboard.
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Remove the remaining eight 10 mm screws using the Phillips Head screwdriver.
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To remove the board from the case pull the board up and away from the audio jack holes to allow the audio jacks to slide out of their holes in the side of the backing.
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Follow the link below to watch a video that goes through all of the steps on how to remove the switches and LEDs from the keyboard. https://youtu.be/luHI4UjkyCY?t=5m37s
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To reassemble your keyboard, follow these instructions in reverse order. There are no special steps to put this back together and it is just as easy to put it back together.
6 comments
Can I use this guide for my Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2014 Tournament edition?
Yeah it’s pretty much the same procedure. I don’t know about the 2013, but the 2014 faceplate has two points on each of the sides where you have to get the spudger in and pry outwards a bit to release two tabs. They’re pretty stiff.
Randy -
Yeah, it’s pretty much the same procedure. I don’t know about this model, but the 2014 has two spots on each side where you have to pry out with the spudger to release some pretty stiff tabs.
Randy -